To learn on the same day Philippine President Rodrigo Duterte vowed that he would track down all those who refused the vaccine and inject them in the arse that the word ‘mandatory’ had emerged in Russia relating to the vaccine was arguably not the most auspicious timing possible.
Whilst I have no difficulty imagining these measures being adopted in the UK without much, if any, opposition ~ picture hordes (yes, I said, hordes) of young men dressed only in rainbow underpants skipping, not very fast, through Nob-butts Garden Centre, hotly pursued by several masked and white-coated gentlemen (two looking suspiciously like Matt Hancock and Fauci) with their syringes in their hands ~ the thought of something similar happening here, in Russia, just does not bare arsing about!
Imagine being chased through the tangled undergrowth of the lonely Russian countryside (where, incidentally, the lupins are gorgeous at this time of year) by five burly Russian men in paramilitary uniforms; chased until you cannot go on anymore (you can, but you won’t!); and then it happens ~ one of them brings you to the ground with a rugby tackle and, before you can say Bill Gates, its pants down, vaccination administered!
Well, it probably won’t come to this after all, as, according to The Moscow Times1, the term ‘mandatory’ is defined like this:
“Though vaccination remains voluntary for Russians, service workers face losing their jobs if they decide not to have the jab.”
The same article states:
“From June 28, all Moscow cafes and restaurants will only serve customers who have been vaccinated, had Covid-19 in the past six months or present a negative test taken within the past 78 hours.”
AP News2 reported that 18 Russian regions had made vaccinations mandatory for employees in certain sectors and listed government offices, retail, health care, education, restaurants and other service industries.
Meanwhile in Kaliningrad, a local news report today states that
“in the Kaliningrad region, mandatory vaccination was announced for officials and workers in several areas – trade, catering, transport services, education. By August 20, at least 60% of employees must be vaccinated. Now in the region more than 140 thousand people have been vaccinated with the first component.”3
So, it does look like being chased around the House of Soviets is not an option. Perhaps it is time to put away those running shoes and roll your sleeves up after all!
Willie & Greta Hartmann may still be drinking tea on the hotel terrace …
Published: 27 June 2021 ~ The Hartman Hotel Svetlogorsk reviewed by Mick Hart
I often wondered what was going on behind the plastic sheets and scaffolding, which, it seemed to me, had been there for years, and then, in the winter of 2020, the sheeting was removed and there stood this immaculately renovated building bearing the name Hartman Hotel.
As a portion of the hotel’s name was synonymous with mine, ‘Hart’, the prospect of not having my photo taken standing next to it was inconceivable. My wife would later use this photograph to create a Facebook post, the implication being that this latest addition to the Svetlogorsk hotel portfolio was under my ownership. How does the expression go? You wish!!
The Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk ~ a brief history The Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk, is the modern successor to the Hartmann Hotel, Rauschen, which itself succeeded the Waldesrand (Forest Edge). The Waldesrand began life in 1910 at a time when the small Prussian town of Rauschen, nestled on the Baltic Coast, was renowned as a spar resort and revered for the health-restoring properties of its fresh sea and pine-tree woodland air.
The name Hartmann was given to the hotel after its new owner, Willie Hartmann, acquired it in the 1920s. When it re-opened in 1925, it incorporated a restaurant, had undergone various interior improvements and had been remodelled as a year-round venue.
Willie Hartmann and his wife, Greta, took great pride in the running and the reputation of their new venture, and it was not long before Hotel Hartmann became a firm favourite, attracting people from far and wide as well as local dignitaries.
When the Second World War changed the course of history, the Hartmanns were forced to abandon their treasured home and business. Fate was kind to them in that they survived the war, resettled and continued to work in the hotel trade, but in 1945 Rauschen officially died and with it the Hartmann Hotel.
Destiny, however, has a strange way of intervening, sometimes in ways that are least expected. Who would have thought, for example, that 76 years after the war, through all the vicissitudes of change and temporality that it inflicted, not only would a hotel faithfully replicated upon the designs of its predecessor rise phoenix-like from the ashes of time but also would be restored to the standards of its former self and revived to bear the name of its most successful owner?
The answer, Willie Hartmann: “War is not eternal,” he told his wife, “… a hotel will always be needed … our grandchildren will still drink tea on the terrace of this hotel!”
What he meant by that in relation to the outcome of the war is a moot point. In early 2020, the descendants of Willie Hartmann discovered by chance whilst surfing on the net that their grandfather’s hotel had been restored, resurrected and eponymously named.
They wrote a heartfelt letter of thanks to the new owners, acknowledging their sensitivity to and appreciation of the hotel’s place in the history of the region, recognising that the new owners could quite easily have taken much of the hard work out of their new project by limiting the conversion to a simple contemporary makeover.
The extent to which the hotel’s exterior resembles that of its predecessor is clearly demonstrated by comparing our photographs, taken in 2021, with those taken in the 1920s, which appear in a booklet thoughtfully commissioned by the hotel’s new owners and devoted to the hotel’s history for the edification of guests and visitors.
The Hartman Hotel Svetlogorsk
My first encounter with the new Hartman (we shall, out of respect, continue to spell it the old German way, Hartmann), that is when the building resembled what it used to be and not a building site, occurred in winter 2020.
With its little red-lamp-shaded lights casting a warm glow through its restaurant windows, I was all for going in, but as we were short on time, and with my wife knowing from years of experience that once in a cosy licensed premises it would be difficult to get me out, we would have to wait until the early summer of 2021 before this avenue of pleasure could be properly explored.
The day that we had chosen to visit Svetlogorsk in mid-June was a hot one, and, unbeknown to us, it was a public holiday (there are many and they are hard to keep track of here!) Consequently, our train was packed, and when we got out I had never seen so many people in Svetlogorsk. It was, to use the vernacular, ‘rammed’.
We had planned to walk to the promenade and have lunch on one of the hotel or restaurant terraces overlooking the sea, but Svetlogorsk’s tourist invasion required evasive action. Almost at once and together we remembered the Hartmann Hotel and how stylish it had looked. It was old, had been restored and had an air of 1930s’ gentility; in other words, it was our sort of place. We would not be disappointed.
We could quite easily have been disappointed, however, since, whilst there were less people away from the front, the terrace at the Hartmann was not short of patrons. Fortunately for us, we had timed it right. On the way I had paused to take stock of my favourite Rauschen building, recently renovated to a high and attractive standard, and by doing so we arrived at the Hartmann just as a table came vacant.
The Hartmann, which is appealing enough in its own right, has added a touch of swish to pull the punters in. Last winter it had a 1930s’ style motor vehicle parked on the forecourt; now, it has a bright red and sparkling-chrome classic MG convertible.
Front entrance to the Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk
In the era of Visual Blitz, induced and exploited by Facebook and other social media, who could resist having their photograph taken next to such a swanky automobile parked out front of such a tasteful hotel? Certainly not my wife. Olga, given her Facebook obsession, was predictably one of the least resisting, and several photographs had to be taken before I could get down to the serious business of sampling the beer.
The Hartman Hotel Svetlogorsk
Having struck lucky with our seats, our pride of place position gave us a good view of the hotel’s revived façade.
This was one of those marvellous, old German/Prussian buildings of inverted breakfront design, where flanking end sections project from the middle plane, thus recessing the central component. The orange-red brickwork that forms the window arches, cornerstones and lateral-running decoration are picked out pleasingly against the white painted background, perfectly in keeping with the architectural style of the late 19th early 20th century. The windows, are, of course, double-glazed units, but in order to conform as far as possible with the shape and impression of the more intricate design contemporary to the Hartmann era, they are predominantly curved in form, made up of sections separated by vertical and horizontal struts and with narrow vertical strips in the upper lights intended to resemble the more elaborate wooden frameworks of earlier periods. The rectangular casements in the upper storey are not a deviation. On the contrary, as the photograph of the hotel front taken in the Hartmann era shows, they replicate the original pattern, as does the long, central balcony and decorative half-timbered fretwork.
The Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk, celebrates its past
The front door with its copper, curved awning and embossed/carved detail is, I imagine, a lot more elaborate than the original Hartmann entrance would have been, but whomsoever chose it deserves top marks for gilding the lily that is the most deserving.
Standing next to this door of doors, at least on the day that we were there, in addition to two potted shrubs, was a fully-fledged doorman in complete vintage doorman regalia, his burgundy sleeveless tunic, conforming tilt hat and twin rows of silver buttons harmonising splendidly with the MG’s polished red livery and dazzling chrome work.
The Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk, doorman
Like many things, hotel observation can be thirsty work, and it was hooray when the beer arrived! As a vegetarian, and a simple food one at that, I do not feel that I am really qualified to comment on the quality of our meal, except to say that my salad was good enough. My wife settled for a good old honest portion of fish and chips but discovered that this was no ordinary plateful: traditional cod had been mixed with tasty salmon! For liquid refreshment Olga had a couple of glasses of wine, and I had two German beers. The tab came to about £20, which we thought was reasonable.
During our time at the Hartmann, the hotel staff were attentive and approachable and the service friendly and good. In fact, we were so taken with it all that although we live only a relatively short bus or train ride from the coast, we decided to take the plunge and book in for a night the following week, which would give us a chance to sample the hotel interior (and, naturally, more beers) and to take a few photos for the post I had planned.
Mick Hart & Olga Hart at the Hartman Hotel
Our overnight stay at the Hartman Hotel, Svetlogorsk
Check in at the Hartmann Hotel is officially 2pm. We arrived early, but this was no problem as the helpful receptionist stowed our overnight bag behind a closed door in a luggage area opposite the lobby desk.
When we had inquired about the possibility of taking a room last week, we had been told that the hotel was fully booked. This encouraged us to take the one room that was vacant, which was a family room, which we would have taken anyway as the extra space and additional seating that this type of room provides is always welcome. For a family room we had to fork out £80, which is not as budget friendly as some hotels in the region, but we were not unhappy considering the standard and ambience.
Room number 23 opens out into one of the end extensions of the building. The large arched window combinations to the front and one at either side makes this a particularly light, airy and pleasant space. It contains a bed-settee, two open armchairs, coffee table and second, wider screen TV.
The room itself is sensitively decorated. Although a dark-wood Gothic man myself, I had no quarrel with the light and pastel colours in this particular setting. The room’s facilities are modern and equipped to a high standard ~ it even has its own iron and ironing board, which is an absolute necessity for keeping one’s cravat in tip-top shape!
To enable en suite conditions, the combined shower room and W.C. has to occupy quite a narrow space, but this has been achieved with zero inconvenience. Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention, and I was, and still am, in awe, as to how they managed to design this room to maximise space and sacrifice nothing.
The room’s door-locking system is one that Willie Hartmann and his wife, not to mention his 1920s’ guests, would find novel and entertaining. It is one of those electronic touch-card jobs, the card also doubling as an electricity activation key once inside the room. Me to the porter, trying not to look as if I was a backdated key user: “How do you work this?” And then when he’d shown me: “Ah, I wondered if you knew!”
These little plastic cards are all well and good, but since they negate the need to physically shut the door, turn the handle and use a key, early rising guests tend to let the door go slam as they toddle off to breakfast, which is a bit disconcerting if you are still in bed biding your time with a hangover. Jim Reeves: ‘I hear the sound of not-so-distant drums!’ Not a criticism, but perhaps some calibrated door-closers?
The Hartmann Hotel’s dining room, located on the ground floor opposite reception, also doubles as a restaurant that admits non-residents. We were out on the town in the evening, so we did not become acquainted with it until breakfast the following morning, whereupon it received immediately the Egon Harty seal of approval.
Breakfast was not wanting in any respect. The choice of food on offer, which is included in the tariff, is wide and varied, and you help yourself to what you want and as much as you want (always a dangerous option when my brother is around; I’ve lost count of the number of restaurants and hotels that almost went out of business when he discovered the invitation ‘eat as much as you like’).
Another bonus was that since it was a warm, sunny morning, we were able to take our breakfast and dine a la carte on the hotel terrace.
The Hartmann Hotel’s website states that Willie Hartmann and his staff laid great store on providing not just excellent service but service with a smile. When you are working with the public (and remember, we know, because we once ran an antiques emporium), remaining cool, calm, collected ~ and, in the hospitality trade, most essentially cordial ~ takes a certain kind of person and a certain kind of skill. I must confess that I never did quite get the hang of this and ran our antiques emporium as if I was Basil Fawlty!
Fortunately, or by careful choice, today’s Hartmann management can boast that its team possesses all the qualities that Willie Hartmann would have expected from his team. Without exception, everyone with whom we came into contact was cheerful, good humoured and helpful. The Hartmann service could not be better!
When it wasn’t the Hartmann or Hartman
It had taken me a while to remember what the Hartmann had been when I first came to Svetlogorsk twenty-one years ago. And then, suddenly, it flashed into my mind, or rather a giant bear skin did!
As I recall, in the left front-extension of the building, there had been a small, two-roomed bar, access to which was only available by crossing a rubble-filled patch of waste ground, the present location of the Hartmann terrace, and then by going through a side door located where the side door is today.
This bar was as basic as basic; it sold tea, vodka and very little else and had a big, flat, sad-looking bear nailed to the wall. As far as I can remember, the rest of the building was in a fallen-on-hard-times state, possibly no longer used and desperately in need of the kind of tender loving care which, thankfully, come the second decade of the 21st century it eventually would be blessed with.
I would not imagine that any reference to Hartmann existed then, but today the name is proudly sign written above the front entrance and on the gable end of the building; the letter ‘H’ appears on all the Art Noveau stylised lamps; and there is an even an ‘H’ incorporated within the embossed panel on the front door.
Inside, the Hartmanns are acknowledged again, with pictorial representations of their faces heading up an acrylic wall board on which an illustrated map featuring the Hartmann hotel in relation to surrounding tourist sights, the coastline and the sea creates an attractive display.
And, in the small seating area that extends from the reception, stands a glass-topped coffee table containing assorted memorabilia from the time when Willie Hartmann and his wife, Greta, ran the hotel. These include monogrammed silver cutlery, an original monogrammed cup and saucer and other period items all resting on a lace tablecloth contemporaneous to the Hartmann’s tenure.
Items from Hartmann’s original hotel include a restaurant menu
Airport transfers You can book a transfer from Khrabrov airport, and back if required, by telephoning the main reception desk: 8 (4012) 270-204 Regular transfer (minivan Hyundai H-1) – 2,000 rubles (approx. £19.90): one way VIP transfer (Lexus LX570) – 3,500 rubles (approx. £34.84): one way
Published: 17 June 2021 ~ Vaccination Rollout is not Russian but World Roulette
My sister wrote to me today from England and at the close of her letter asked, and I quote, “Just to touch on the most current topic … How is the [vaccination] ‘roll-out’ going in Russia?”
The answer that immediately sprang to mind was, I don’t know.
Vaccination Rollout is not Russian but World Roulette
The reaction to and media coverage of coronavirus in the UK is world’s apart from its counterparts in Russia. Even making allowances for the fact that we do not have broadcast TV and that I rarely read the news on the internet, my wife is an inveterate Facebook twiddler so news filters through to me, whether I want it or not.
One thing is certain: There is less hysteria here in Russia, both in respect of media coverage and the reaction of the populace to coronavirus. True, my wife reads news clips on Facebook, but she is more concerned with the ambiguities, ambivalence, seeming double-talk, twists, U-turns and general, what might be scientifically referred to as, arse-about-face of it all than she is in who has had their first or their 55th jab, the proclamations of new strains and dire warnings of further mutations. She is diehard ‘anti-maskee’ and is always quoting, whenever I mention the vaccine, that never in the history of the world have governments embarked upon a global vaccination programme such as the one they have launched in the name of addressing Covid-19, which she finds suspicious, and she is more concerned with the impact that never-ending social distancing, lockdowns, isolation and general fearmongering is having on the psychological health and wellbeing of millions of people robbed of their need of personal and social interconnection, which in her philosophy is both the essence and hub of human existence.
It was she who sent me the following video link (after twenty-one years of marriage communicating by email is more popular than you might think!), telling me to listen to “what your favourite person [Katie Hopkins] has to say”: https://youtu.be/qQV1Ww9QGmU
It is not that my good lady wife disbelieves the existence of coronavirus or the potential of it pernicious effects, simply that she like many others questions the efficacy of the measures imposed upon us by ‘those in the know’ and like a lot of us is none too comfortable with the gold-rush mentality to be injected with something that has not been tested according to the usual standard protocols. In discussions on the subject, she likes to remind me that I was one of those who casually opined that come the vaccine come the silver bullet, whereas we now know ~ or rather are now told ~ that nothing much has changed and possibly will not change until 2023/24 and perhaps not even ever.
An article published by Elsevier1 supports my wife’s criticism of me, the commentary clearly stating that ‘Vaccines are not yet a silver bullet’. And yet, I quote from the same article [my emphasis], “In other words, to help societies avoid transmission vectors and start imagining the “new normal”, continued communication about the need for face masks, personal hygiene, and social distancing is of instrumental importance.”
As I understand it, however, in the UK the new normal is resulting in a great deal of new suffering ~ psychological, physical and emotional ~ by those whose livelihoods are threatened, whose businesses are going under and many more who, because of coronavirus prioritisation, are finding that they are unable to gain access to the vital healthcare that they need if they are to survive existing illnesses, regardless of whether they get coronavirus or not.
Whilst controversy over the fallout from coronavirus restriction rules is buzzing around on social media as if someone has kicked the hive, a large vacuous hole continues to exist both in media spaces and authoritative places. Without answers, there are only rules; and rules without answers are there to be questioned, challenged and even ignored.
Nevertheless, my sister’s comment about the ‘most current topic’ had left me feeling out of the loop, so I turned for the answer in the pages of The Moscow Times2. Well, why not, for a change!
Accessed on the 17 June 2021, under the headline Coronavirus in Russia: The Latest News | June 17, here is my update:
~ Russia has confirmed 5,264,047 cases of coronavirus and 127,992 deaths, according to the national coronavirus information center. Russia’s total excess fatality count since the start of the coronavirus pandemic is around 475,000.
~ Russia on Thursday confirmed 14,057 new coronavirus cases and 416 deaths. Of today’s cases, 6,195 are in Moscow.
~ Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin on Wednesday announced mandatory vaccination for service sector workers, saying the measure is necessary as the city grapples with 12,000 hospitalized Covid-19 patients and levels of illness equal to last year’s peaks.
And there is more about closing bars and restaurants early and working from home.
But that is Moscow. What of Kaliningrad, where we live (I last checked about 12 weeks ago!). Here is today’s update3:
~ In the Kaliningrad region, 80 new cases of coronavirus were detected. The total number of infected reached 34 694.
~ 56 patients were diagnosed with ARVI, 15 with pneumonia. Nine more had no symptoms.
~ During the day in the region, 73 patients were discharged from hospitals after recovery. Since the beginning of the pandemic, 33,525 people have recovered, 538 have died.
So there you have it!
I think that the ‘most current topic’, as my sister refers to coronavirus and the issue of vaccination, is, like a lot of other things, evaluated in a markedly different way by the Russian population compared to the mindset in the West.
As usual, would-be pundits in the West are seemingly confused about why the take-up of the Covid-19 vaccine is not steaming along at full tilt as it is in countries like the USA and UK. I say, ‘as usual, because the inability of western Europeans to understand anything Russian, or to assume that they do not, is not a new phenomenon (understatement intended). Take a look at the screenprint (you may have to magnify the image) that I have included in this post, which returns from the Google search ‘vaccination in Russia’ [accessed 16 June 2021]:
In the circles in which we move in Kaliningrad, there is a lot to be said for my wife’s theory that people tend to judge the coronavirus situation, and personally react to it, depending on what is happening closest to them. In other words, each individual weighs up the pros and cons of the restrictions and vaccine-taking depending on how many people they know who have had a mild attack of the virus, a serious attack, how many people they know who have died as a direct result of contracting coronavirus and how many people they know who have not been infected at all, and then they act accordingly. In the UK, mass opinion is mobilised, and large swathes of people motivated, by what politicians tell them to do and by the national media’s complicity to bring about a desired result by whatever means it has and whatever it takes ~ and it does not take much.
On the wearing of masks, for example, here I have heard it said that most people who wear them, wear them to avoid a fine rather than give credence to the unproven science of their latent life-saving properties, which is possibly why most people wear them with their nose poking out or as under-chin accessories. In the UK, however, whilst some people wear masks for the same reason and in the same way, the majority of mask wearers wear them purely because they are told to do so. In the UK, compliance is king.
On the slow take-up of vaccination in Russia, as you can see from the following screen grab (you may need to magnify), which returns from the Google search ‘vaccination in Russia’ [accessed 16 June 2021], western media is more than happy to tie Russian vaccination reluctance to their efforts to discredit the Sputnik V Covid-19 vaccine, which resulted from a fit of pique when Russia won the ‘vaccine race’.
My take on the low uptake from people I have asked is that no such specificity exists. It is not that the Russian people are crying out for western vaccines, just that they are more individualistic and selective in their approach to the whole question of vaccination safety and efficacy. I mean after the latest revelations about the AtsraZeneca vaccine4 …
Let’s face it folks, life is a roulette wheel. Whether the vaccine is running around inside you or not, until they finish those vaccine trials, which will not happen before 2023 or 2024 earliest, it is still a game of chance. So, fingers crossed.
“Я не хочу хвастаться, но мы пришли к финишу вторыми и отстали от победителя гонки всего лишь на несколько секунд!
Published: 13 June 2021 ~ Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Мы только что съехали с ухабистой, изрытой выбоинами проселочной дороги и снова выехали на главную магистраль. Наш водитель сдал назад.
“В современной машине такие повороты в порядке вещей, – сказал он, – но для этой машины, у которой высокая посадка, это может быть опасно. Видите ли, она легко может …”
Он остановился, когда мы свернули на крутой поворот.
“… легко перевернуться.”
Речь шла о машине 1956 года выпуска ГАЗ-М20 “Победа”. В машине имелись: коробка переключения скоростей, переднее сиденье, состоящее из двух частей, ветровое стекло, отделка под дерево, большие рабочие часы, кнопка индикатора движения в верхней центральной части приборной панели, небольшие боковые вентиляционные окна на передних пассажирских дверях и солнцезащитные откидные щитки. В машине также присутствовал ее владелец-водитель по имени Юрий Грозмани, а также я и моя жена Ольга.
Yuri Grozmarni, Olga Hart & Mick Hart: Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021
Причина, по которой мы находились в автомобиле, внимательно следя за временем и неотрывно сверяясь с навигационными картами, заключалась в том, что мы принимали участие в первом региональном ралли ретро-автомобилей калининградского автоклуба.
Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021
Мы стартовали с приподнятой платформы для автомобилей ровно в 13.21. Тщательно рассчитанное время нашего путешествия от начала до конца составляло один час десять минут, не больше, не меньше – от фасада Кенигсбергского собора до Гвардейска. Все было рассчитано буквально до секунды. На пути было два контрольно-пропускных пункта, и прибытие на эти контрольно-пропускные пункты должно было точно совпадать с назначенным временем прибытия. Если вы опаздывали, вам нужно было жать ногой на акселератор; если же вы опережали время, вам нужно было убирать ногу с газа и выжидать время. Юрий был за рулем, я был штурманом, Ольга стала импровизированным вторым пилотом, сверяя показания времени на каждом этапе гонки со временем в её мобильном телефоне.
Для тех, у кого есть хотя бы элементарное понимание и умение читать карты, эта навигация стала бы пустяком, и даже для меня , у которого нет ни понимания, ни умения этого делать, не составило труда установить связь между четкими линиями с их символами в квадратах, а также с ориентирами и с их направлениями, и понять куда нам нужно было двигаться. Навигационные карты были составлены так просто, чтобы любой школьник смог ими воспользоваться. На каждой странице была таблица, разделенная на три части. В первой колонке отмечено время, которое должно пройти от линии старта до прибытия в определенную точку пути, во второй колонке-простая, но четкая иллюстрация поворота или полосы движения, а в третьей колонке дополнительная информация, которая могла оказаться полезной, например, имя населенного пункта на указателе.
Навигационные карты Калининградского ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года
Вскоре я освоился с навигацией; жаль, что у меня это не получилось, когда дело дошло до сверки времени. Ни я ни Ольга, в школе не получили никаких наград по математике, мы даже призов не получили, и поэтому с первого запроса от водителя с требованием сколько времени осталось до первого контрольного пункта мы оба были в замешательстве. Расчетное время прибытия на первый контрольно-пропускной пункт составляло 31 минуту, и нам было трудно вычислить, сколько нам осталось времени с учетом пройденного маршрута. После того, как мы показали себя не с лучшей стороны, Юрий вмешался, и мы оба в конце концов согласились, что он был прав, мы не знали был ли он прав или не был так как подсчитать время мы так и не сумели.
Мик Харт, Ольга Харт и Юрий Грозманиавтомобиль “Победа” 1956 год Калининград
Сегодня в Калининграде движение было не особенно интенсивным. У нас выдалось несколько напряженных моментов, когда мы свернули с однойглавной дороги на другую, особенно на дороге в непосредственной близости от стадиона, где проходил Чемпионата мира по футболу в Калининграде, но как только мы выехали на открытую дорогу, “Победа” рванулась вперед, как и подобает такому первоклассному автомобилю.
Мы сверили время и обнаружили, что несмотря на относительно удачный старт мы отстали от графика на несколько минут. Юрий нажал на газ. Через несколько минут мы сверили время опять и обнаружили, что, хотя мы ехали быстрее, время все же обгоняло нас. А потом появилась проселочная дорога, ведущая к первому контрольно-пропускному пункту.
“Победа” сошла с конвейера в 1946 году и в течение последующих трех лет претерпела ряд усовершенствований. Среди улучшенных, в 1949 году, новшеств “Победы” стала ее “подвеска для всех местностей”, и на этом участке дороги Юрий испытал ее. 64-летняя машина показала на что она способна, подвеска и губчатые сиденья оказались более чем подходящими для алгоритма отскока, позволяя нам наслаждаться особенно привлекательным видом из окна – сельской местностью, изрезанной холмами, впадинами, озерами и живописными старыми немецкими зданиями.
Внезапно в поле зрения замаячил первый контрольно-пропускной пункт. И знаете что произошло? Мы опередили график на 60 секунд! Юрий остался невозмутимым; с темпераментом опытного танцора, он ослабил упор ноги и доставил нас на пункт назначения секунда в секунду! Зарегистрировавшись на контрольно-пропускном пункте, мы снова отправились в путь.
Мы опять поспорили о том, сколько времени у нас осталось до того, как мы должны прибыть на следующий контрольно-пропускной пункт. Где-то что-то было не так. Но я отказываюсь выяснять кто был прав, и кто неправ! Выяснилось, что между первым и вторым контрольно-пропускными пунктами у нас было всего семь минут, очень немного времени для того чтобы расслабиться. Мы думали, что не успеваем, но на самом деле мы опережали.
Калининградское ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года. Приборная панель “Победа” 1956 года выпуска
Прямо перед нами стояли две “Волги”, выехавшие из Кенигсберга раньше нас. Они обе свернули с дороги, вероятно, потому, что тоже опережали график, но, увидев нас поехали вперед.
На втором контрольно-пропускном пункте требовалось въехать во двор, сделать отметку в карточке, а затем снова выехать на дорогу. Машина впереди развернулась, но мы с Юрием сумели ее подрезать на контрольно-пропускном пункте. Я уверен, что это было сделано из хорошего намерения, но все же, нам ответили сигналом гудка.
Мы снова помчались вперед и у нас оставалось около 25 минут, чтобы добраться до финишной черты в Гвардейске. Гвардейск-небольшой городок с большой площадью, что делает его идеальным местом для проведения подобных мероприятий. В последний раз мы были здесь с моим младшим братом летом 2019 года с Авто Ретро-клубом, участвуя в международном фестивале “Золотая тень Кенигсберга”.
Нам с Ольгой нравится этот город. Он хорошо спланирован, имеет сбалансированную пропорцию немецкого и советского происхождения, несколько прекрасных старых готических зданий, музеи,специализированный сырный магазин, и в нем можно совершить прогулку вдоль живописного берега реки. Сегодня мы буквально не теряли времени, добираясь сюда, и нам пришлось помедлить, чтобы выждать несколько минут, прежде чем заехать на городскую площадь под шум ликующей толпы, музыку и щелканье камер.
Как только мы приехали, молодая дама преподнесла нам с Ольгой подарок. Это был большой круглый пирог с абрикосовым джемом, только что испеченный и еще теплый из духовки. Такие добрые жесты не остаются незамеченными.
Мику Харту подарили большой пирог в Гвардейске, Калининградская область. Юрий Грозмани и Мик Харт с большим пирогом Калининградское ралли винтажных автомобилей 2021
Так как мы живем в эпоху смартфонов, ФБ и блицкрига изображений, то нет нужды говорить, o том что не было никаких ограничений на количество фотографий, сделанных сначала на камеру одного человека, а затем на камеру другого, а затем с этими людьми, а затем с теми. Мы с Ольгой решили проветрить винтажную одежду, так что это была еще одна причина для того, чтобы иметь дело с папарацци. Однако мы все же нашли время ускользнуть.
Май 2021 года: Винтажные автомобили Калининградского Авто Ретро-клуба выстраиваются в линию в Гвардейске ~ Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Первым пунктом посещения был общественный туалет. Я странный, поэтому мне нравится использовать общественный туалет а Гвардейске. Для меня это настоящий советский опыт: спуститься по узкой лестнице, заплатить бабушке, сидящей на самодельном стуле-троне внизу, а затем повернуть направо в самодельный тронный зал. Я не могу представить себе ни одной поездки в Гвардейск без использования или, по крайней мере, посещения этого заведения.
Теперь пришло время для расслабляющей прогулки по городу, осмотра достопримечательностей, посещения сырного магазина и посиделок в старом дворе кошачьего заповедника, чтобы перекусить, любуясь иллюстрациями кошек и старинной немецкой атмосферой этого уединенного места.
У нас было даже больше свободного времени, чем мы себе представляли, поэтому я успел угостить себя мороженым, не больше, не меньше – с названием ‘CCCP’!
Когда мы вернулись на площадь, нас ждали желающие сфотографироваться. Именно здесь молодая женщина спросила, можно ли ей сфотографироваться с нами. Оказалось, что она хорошо владеет английским языком, и в процессе беседы она призналась, что мечтает уехать в Америку. Когда моя жена спросила, почему, она подумала, а потом сказала:
“Американская мечта”.
Мы ничего не сказали. Я помню, как Леонард Коэн сказал: “Но ты не хочешь лгать, только не молодым”. Кроме того, эта молодая женщина, должно быть, была либо чрезвычайно проницательна, либо она забыла надеть очки, так как она сказала, что я выглядел “красивым”. Ревновала ли моя жена? Я думаю, что эта реплика ее позабавила!
Перед тем как мы покинули Кенигсбергский собор, Юрий поднял красный флаг, сообщив нам, что у его машины возникли проблемы с системой охлаждения, но пока все хорошо: нет необходимости доливать воду. Однако незадолго до того, как мы покинули финишную черту, он наполнил бак топливом, и я был заинтригован, увидев, что он может проверить, сколько в баке, используя небольшой тестер, который он хранил в багажнике.
Мы покинули Гвардейск колонной с полицейским эскортом – от площади до границы города и под фанфары, еще более восторженные, чем те, что приветствовали нас по приезду. Старинные автомобили, похоже, оказывают такое воздействие на людей, вызывая уважение, любовь и удовольствие. Многие люди стоят на обочине дороги, фотографируя их на свои телефоны и снимая видео; люди в машинах сигналят и машут, когда проезжают мимо. Это прекрасно!
Сегодня, на обратном пути в Калининград, мы проезжали замок Вальдау, дорога к которому проходит параллельно главной магистрали, и когда мы откинулись на спинку сиденья, повернувшись лицом к дороге, по которой мы ехали, нам открылось великолепнейшее зрелище: машины клуба образовали длинную непрерывную процессию, полированный хром и краска блестели в лучах послеполуденного солнца, а автомобильные флаги с названием и логотипом клуба великолепно развевались на ветру.
К сожалению, замок Вальдау сегодня будет только проездом, но не успели мы въехать на его территорию, как я почувствовал ощущение де жавю. Это было так глубоко, волнующе и органично, что этот знакомый призыв из давно минувших дней захватил меня полностью. Ольга была того же мнения, и поэтому выразила неудовольствие, когда обнаружила, что сегодня нет времени для дальнейшего осмотра территории. “Мы вернемся!” – утверждала она, продолжая ворчать на меня Юрию за то, что он ”никогда никуда не хочет идти … просто сидит на чердаке и пишет”. Как человек, которому журналистика не чужда, я знал, что Юрий меня поймет.
Автомобили Авто Ретро Клуба в Замке Валдау ~ Калининградское ралли Винтажных автомобилей 2021
Территория перед замком Вальдау не такая обширная, как можно было бы ожидать, на самом деле она похожа на рощу, образуя центральный остров из деревьев и травы, с дорогой идущей внутрь и тропинкой на противоположной стороне. Подъездная дорожка расширяется перед зданием, и по мере того, как машины одна за другой и очень медленно въезжали на эту более широкую территорию, группа из пяти дам, выстроившихся в дверях замка, приветствовала их, махала руками и смеялась, когда каждая машина проезжала мимо. Эта веселая группа была одета в прусском стиле и играла свою роль так убедительно и с такой искренностью что когда каждая машина сворачивала за угол, пассажиры были поражены искренностью этого приветствия. Их искренность освещала лица, как будто кто-то превратил их лица в человеческие фонари. Никто, кроме президента клуба, Артура, который метался, пытаясь вместить слишком много машин в недостаточно большое пространство, и явно преуспевал в этом деле, не остался непосвященным. Веселье было заразительным и распространялось, как стремительный лесной пожар. Даже внушительное готическое здание не могло изобразить неодобрения, здесь было так много веселья, даже больше чем веселье, как будто к вам во всех нужных местах прикасалась Молл Фландерс.
Сотрудники в традиционных прусских костюмах приветствуют старинные советские автомобили в замке Валдау, Калининградская областьМик Харт и Ольга Харт с сотрудниками замка Вальдау 29 мая 2021 года
От замка вереница разъехалась, и каждая машина отправилась по своему предпочтительному маршруту обратно к Кенигсбергскому собору, чтобы снова встретится у входа в собор под аплодисменты и приветствия, достойные героев-завоевателей.
У нас было достаточно времени до момента истины, чтобы перекусить в одной из закусочных, выпить кофе и отдохнуть на деревянной скамейке которая располагалась в лучшем месте, освещенном солнцем. До момента, когда мы узнаем кто прошел курс идеально, вписался во временные рамки и занял одно из трех призовых мест.
Для победителей были приготовлены три главных трофея, а также кубки меньшего размера и сертификаты для тех, кто справился с заданием не так хорошо, как им бы хотелось бы, но был награждён за участие.
Мы заняли второе место, будучи всего в одной секунде от первого.
Как только наш статус был объявлен, мы сели обратно в “Победу”, и Юрий, ловко и на скорости завел машину на приподнятый автомобильный пандус так красиво, что я мог бы только мечтать о таком высшем пилотаже.
Это было время принятия призов и выступлений.
Для меня это была нелегкая задача. Я был единственным англичанином в гонке, и я не собирался навязывать ни толпе, стоящей передо мной, ни себе, мой несравненно плохой русский язык. Это означало, что мне придется обращаться к толпе по-английски. Я уверен, что в толпе, стоявшей передо мной, должен был быть один или два человека, которые поймут, о чем я говорю. Например, там была моя жена, которая никогда меня не понимает. Так почему же я решил что она начнет понимать меня сейчас? Тем не менее, после того как я закончил свою краткую речь, Юрий сделал краткий перевод.
Это был долгий день, полезный день, совсем необычный день. Как говорится, все случается в первый раз, и мы получили огромное удовольствие от этого первого раза!”
Мик Харт и Юрий Грозмани получают трофей на Калининградском ралли ретро-автомобилей 29 мая 2021 года Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Published: 11 June 2021 ~ Zalivino Lighthouse flashes again
The last time we visited Zalivino Lighthouse it was a blisteringly cold day in early January of this year. We were back again today (8 June 2021) in temperatures reaching 23 degrees, and with a refreshing breeze skimming across the surface of the lagoon, to witness the official inauguration of the lighthouse’s new lantern.
What a difference sun, blue skies and the thriving natural habitat along this beautiful stretch of the coastline makes, and what a difference five months of concerted conservation commitment and hard work has made to the restoration progress of Zalivino lighthouse.
On our last visit the keeper’s cottage and abutting building were nothing more than ruined shells. Then, we had a hard time trying to find something substantial to hide behind to shelter us from the bitter winds, but here were those same buildings, less than six months later, brickwork intact, windows and doors in situ and spanking brand new roofs in the latter stages of near completion.
Zalivino Lighthouse gets new lantern, June 2021
You only have to compare the photographs that I took on our previous visit (see Support the Restoration of Zalivino Lighthouse) with the ones that I took today, to see how things have progressed. No wonder that the great and the good, the dignitaries, movers and shakers and representatives of Kaliningrad’s Ocean Museum were out in force today to congratulate each other. Who could say that they did not deserve it?
Zalivino Lighthouse flashes again after 36 years!
Zalivino Lighthouse flashes again! ~ official ceremony, 8 June 2021
Zalivino Lighthouse Zalivino Lighthouse is one of three lighthouses in the Kaliningrad region built before World War II.
For almost a century Zalivino lighthouse was an important navigation signal, enabling ships to plot their course safely across the Curonian Lagoon.
In Prussian times, Zalivino, as it is known today, comprised two settlements, Rinderort and Labagienen, renamed in 1938 as Haff-winkel. For centuries, fishermen would set off early in the morning from these shores to fish the surrounding waters, returning late in the evening. The sustained livelihood of the families that lived here depended on a good fishing yield and, of course, the safe return of the breadwinner.
The region’s first navigation system came into being in 1868. Standing next to a fisherman’s house in Rinderort, it consisted of a coal lamp with a lens fixed to a 12-metre wooden pole. Elevation was transacted with a manual lifting device, and although the light had obvious benefits it was only effective at short distance.
Zalivino lighthouse, as we know it today ~ the 15.3-metre cylindrical brick tower with lantern room, observation platform, copper cupola and stone spiral staircase ~ replaced the light on a pole in 1889. It, and the adjoining lightkeeper’s house, was built by W Jourlauke, whose name can still be seen stamped into the brickwork.
The lighthouse lantern had two sections, one red and the other white, with a range of 7 and 12 miles, respectively. One lighted the lagoon toward the Spit and the second one marked the entrance to the mouth of the Deyma River.
The lighthouse ceased operation in 1985. In 2020, the Volga-Balt administration transferred the lighthouse to the Museum of the World Ocean, under whose auspices it is now undergoing phased restoration in recognition of its unique maritime heritage status in both its East Prussian and Russian contexts.
Zalivino Lighthouse flashes again after 36 years!
A lighthouse without a light is about as useful as a pub with no beer, so it was a personal joy for us, and everyone else present, to see the lighthouse flashing again after 36 years of dormancy.
The Fresnel lens, a gift from commanders of the Baltic Fleet and officer-hydrographers, would not let us leave without we say hello to it, so we retraced the stone spiral staircase that we had climbed in January and clambered up the short metal ladder into the lighthouse’s lantern room, at last occupied by a fully functional lamp. And what a beauty she is!
Once acquainted, we pushed open the heavy metal door and side-stepped onto the narrow platform gallery. From here, we received a birds-eye view both of the restoration work to date and the inspiring coastal scenery, a view for the most part unchanged, as seen through the eyes of lighthouse keepers for close on a hundred years.
Looking down onto terra firma made my wife giddy, as it did me, albeit for other reasons. Seeing the new roof taking shape on top of the keeper’s cottage reminded me that a similar makeover was needed for our dacha!
Zalivino lighthouse keeper’s cottage gets new roof
Since our previous visit, other improvements in and around the lighthouse were also evident. They include new glazing to the observation deck, cleaning of the well, dredging of the coastal strip, planting and maintenance of an apple orchard and, for security purposes, the installation of perimeter fencing and video-surveillance cameras.
A gazebo, where visitors will be able to rest themselves, take in the historic and natural scenery and indulge in light refreshments, is also under construction. Today, this brick-built addition to the site of the Zalivino lighthouse chalked up another first to keep the new lantern company, prematurely fulfilling its role as a dispenser of food and beverages.
Unfortunately, the free fish soup was strictly off limits to me; one spoonful would have meant revoking my membership of the newly incorporated Zalivino Vegetarian Society ~ a strange thing indeed for a place like this, whose fortunes historically are inextricably tied to manly men in oilskins, their boats, nets, fish and, one might hazard a guess, fish soup in abundance. This reminds me, when you visit Zalivino Lighthouse do make time to call in on the Zalivino village museum, an admirable establishment devoted to the history of the settlements in this region and the marine heritage on which their survival depended (more of which I hope to post later).
Further information about Zalivino Lighthouse, including fundraising activities, accessibility and so on can be found at the end of my previous post, Support the Restoration of Zalivino Lighthouse.
Published: 3 June 2021~ Secret Weapon in Kaliningrad
You know how the UK media is always going on about the Kaliningrad region being the most militarised zone in the universe, well here’s a secret weapon that my wife discovered when she was out shopping one evening.
Its code name is Lift Off, but we shall refer to it by its layman’s name: the Ground-to-Air Arse-Seeking Boot!
My good lady wife had popped out of the house to make a routine trip to a local food store. It is a small shop but well stocked with a variety of different products.
On this particular evening, there was herself and the lady serving her in the shop and nobody else.
Suddenly, the door opened and in staggered an extremely drunken man. He was mnoga peearni, as they say in these parts.
Swaying this way and that and reeking of booze, he faced the two women in the shop and ordered them to give him some money: “I’m hungry!” he exclaimed.
Silence ensued.
Becoming more agitated, he repeated his demand.
My wife, being a teacher and used to addressing me on the subject of alcohol, looked at him firmly and said, “If you’ve got enough money to booze, then you ought to have enough money to feed yourself with!”
The well-oiled man became extremely angry.
“You b…..s!!” he shouted. “You must feed me! I’m going to sit in this corner and won’t move until you do!”
At that moment, a man of no small proportions entered the shop. He purchased three or four items, and just as he was about to leave the shopkeeper whispered to him, “That man in the corner is extremely drunk and demanding money and food! I am frightened of him.”
“What, this vermin!!” the strapping fellow proclaimed in a tone of disbelief, whereupon he marched over to the gentlemen concerned, hoisted him up by the scruff of the neck, turned him around to face the doorway and taking careful aim gave him a ground-to-arse boot send off.
Although the secret weapon had succeeded in propelling the target some two metres or more, the recipient, as though still unconvinced of its capabilities, crawled back for more. Was he a stunt man?
Once again, the man in charge of the defensive booteries found himself obliged to provide a further demonstration of the weapon’s capability. So, he turned the target around, took careful aim for the second time, launched the lethal ground-to-arse-seeking boot and sent the target flying.
“Oh thank you,” said the shopkeeper, “but I am of the opinion that when you leave he [the drunken man] will simply return.”
She could not have underestimated the strapping Sir Galahad more, for not only was he a very good shot equipped with a big pair of boots that anyone would be envious of, but he also seemed to operate his own road haulage company, for, no sooner had the fearful shopkeeper expressed her concerns to him than he had literally collared the drunken man and, hoisting him on all fours, proceeded to ferry him across the busy road where, he assured the tremulous shopkeeper, given his drunken state should the offending object attempt to re-cross the road he would be swept away on the front of a passing car bonnet and end up somewhere in Poland.
The moral of this story is plain to see. Unless you are wearing a thick piece of sponge in your underpants and don’t mind going to Poland, and going there very suddenly, aggressive begging in the city of Kaliningrad is not entirely recommended.
Репетитор английского языка в Калининграде: Развивайте cвои навыки английского языка с преподавателем Oльгой Коростелевой–Харт, имеющей 20-летний опыт преподавания в Великобритании (квалификация выдана Палатой Учителей Великобритании, сертификат за номером 0614508)
