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Mick Hart Waldau Castle Kaliningrad region

It Happened at Waldau Castle Kaliningrad

A night to remember

Published: 13 July 2021 ~ It Happened at Waldau Castle Kaliningrad

Take a 750-year-old castle, a friendly curator-family from central Russia, an impressive and well-stocked museum, two classic Volgas and a vintage Hanomag car, a guided tour by a youthful tour guide better informed than Tacitus, home-baked bread the delights of which I have never tasted before made by a child baker, a female troupe in full traditional German dress demonstrating Prussian folk dancing, first-class quality beer and cognac, a rousing speech by our friend Grozmani about the book that took him 29 years to research and write, an opera concert performed in the open air by professional opera singers, a grand finale supper with large iced cakes, and what you have is one of the most unusual and interesting birthday parties that I have ever had the good fortune to have been invited to.

The curious location of this event, to which we were driven in style in our friend’s, Arthur’s, classic Volga, was Waldau Castle, thirty minutes or so by car from Kaliningrad.

We had called at the castle at the end of the Kaliningrad Retro Car Club’s rally a couple of weeks before, on which occasion I had been attracted to the castle on many levels but immediately by the feel of what it was and what you would not expect it to be.

It Happened at Waldau Castle Kaliningrad

No sooner had we passed through the gate into the castle grounds than I was smitten with an enveloping sense of calm, a convalescent repose, which had it been a churchyard or a monastery would have excited no further response but, given the purpose for which it had been constructed and by which it had lived out most of its life, fortification, seemed oddly at variance with its military biography.

My first impression had been no aberration, for the same singularity stepped out to greet me when we passed through the castle gate this evening. There was no challenge, no rattle of sabres or priming of firearms, in fact nothing to authenticate its militaristic legacy, only an inviting, calling, sense of calm, the kind that those who seek and who are fortunate to find might speak of in terms of sanctuary.

We had pulled up in our Volga not at the front of the house but a short distance from it and parked at the side of the drive. Although the castle’s surviving principal building was visible from where we were, it was yet indistinct, only a glimpse of its tall, grey walls asserted itself through the wooded area that lay between us, the tree trunks and branches obscuring whilst the leafy canopy overhead cast a thoughtful but not unpleasing shade over the tranquil prospect and introduced a welcome coolness in which refuge could be taken, for although it was early evening the heat of the day had not yet abated.

Set in the middle of this entreating copse stands a solid monument of large, rectangular proportions surmounted by an apex top. It is dedicated to those who fell in the First World War. This is a German monument which has on both of its narrower ends an incised representation of the imperial military cross and along the top edge of the monument’s greater width words of commemoration.

German WWI Memorial Russia

There is something so touchingly melancholic about this monument immersed within the shade of Castle Waldau’s trees. I detect in it an attitude of self-consciousness, as if it plainly understands that whilst symbolism is timeless, the land on which it is stationed, and for which the men it pays tribute to gave their lives, is now but a point of historical record and has lost all claim to anything else.

Be this as it may, I could find nothing in the calm that I have already described to suggest the slightest trace of rancour, just a gentle, quiet, contentment. So, if there are ghosts in the grounds of Waldau Castle, you are less likely to hear them rattling chains than to catch them occasionally sighing.

It Happened at Waldau Castle Kaliningrad

The path that leads away from the German memorial led us in a straight line to the front door of the castle. We stood on the opposite side of the sweeping driveway taking in the Teutonic might with which all German buildings of a certain age and stature in this part of the world are redoubtably invested. Bold, solid and, apart from the section of the building devoted to the doorway and its encasement, austere, the structure embodies typical if mythical German virtues and has an impregnability about it that perceptibly transcends bricks and mortar, effortlessly overshadowing the knowledge and laws of mere physics.

Waldau Castle facade

The only concession that the architect of this building has made to the decorative lies in the perpendicular that projects, surrounds and extends vertically from the main entrance, a feature which supports two sets of simple Gothic windows, three in parallel, both sets incorporating tracery and both arranged within a rectangular oriel supported by a stepped, pyramidical corbel. Enrichment takes the form of a small number of various blind, recessed arches, with the oriel culminating in a crenelated cornice and the perpendicular typically concluded as a broad stepped gable, the last horizontal platform of which makes the perfect base for Mrs Stork and her nest.

Waldau Castle entrance
Waldau Castle Gothic features
Two photographs (see above) depicting Waldau Castle entrance and the Gothic nature of the embellishing features

To the right of the building, orienting from the position of observer standing at the front of the castle, is a second three-storey building connected to the principal by a high wall. This second building houses the castle museum.

The museum at Castle Waldau, Kaliningrad region, Russia

Both the castle and its grounds have passed through innumerable transitions in its 750-year history and no better appreciation of this can be found than by visiting the on-site museum, which occupies the cellar, ground and second floors of the surviving wing of the castle.

It is impressive in its collection of artefacts, impressive in its layout, impressive in its inventive displays and impressive in the past that clings to it in every tread of its ancient steps and every nook and cranny. It is so impressive that it needs to be covered in its own article, so we will put it on hold for the time being and revisit it at a later date. Ghosts and God willing!

It Happened at Waldau Castle Kaliningrad

In the wall that connects the two remaining parts of Waldau Castle, there is a small, low archway, the kind in historic buildings that must be walked through in order that the apparition that you will eventually become can follow in the footsteps of those that once like you were physical forms. It is truly a time-honoured ritual, in every sense of the word, but do not forget to lower your head!

On the other side of this portal, we found ourselves on a piece of wild ground, on a slight eminence looking over more ground of an even wilder nature: lush, green, overgrown and silent. This is the last step on the road to complete tranquility that you would want to take of your own volition. We ambled along, Olga, our friend Inara and I, stopping now and again to move fragments of brick with our shoes or to pick up a piece of pottery, deep in the thought of moments past.

The back of the castle is not in the best of health. There is no denying its solid state, but the wall rendering has given way in places and the castle’s eyes, the many windows spread out across its awesome width and height, are covered in a mess of makeshift cataracts. I cannot remember when, if ever, I last beheld such an incongruous and anomalous sight, in which doors of all shapes, sizes, makes and periods have been requisitioned for use as wooden blinds to eye-patch empty window sockets. But work proceeds, and as Waldau Castle knows, possibly better than anyone, nothing remains the same for long or forever.

Boarded windows Waldau Castle

Returning to the front of the castle was a lot like having swapped Leonard Cohen for VE Day. The vintage cars had been lined up on the opposite side of the drive to the castle entrance and the party guests were busy assembling in the middle of the driveway.

Hanomag Kaliningrad

A troupe of ladies all dressed in period Prussian costume were about to demonstrate the art of traditional Prussian dancing. The music and footwork in clogs set the party spirit in motion, but before getting down to the serious business of sampling the beer and cognac, we were about to be given a guided tour of Waldau Castle’s ground floor rooms.

Waldau Castle, Russia. Typical Prussian folk dancing

On the other side of Waldau Castle’s entrance sits a great hall, which owes its present restored condition to the hard work and volunteer commitment of one family, the Sorokins, whose tender loving care can be seen and felt everywhere. Observing and appreciating is one thing, but it is quite another to have to clean and repair acres of wooden floorboards, bricks by the thousands and dusty, peeling plasterwork and have to construct hefty, wooden, external doors and massy window frames when by trade you are not a carpenter but are the sort of valuable person who can turn your hand to anything.

When my wife mentioned this feat to the head of the Sorokin family, he modestly confirmed, “No, I am not a carpenter by trade, but I believe that everyone has an innate knowledge that they rarely ever use, and if necessitated can turn their hand to anything.” I would like to have concurred, and I did note the professionalism of his castle doors and windows, but I also recalled in secret embarrassment how, back in the 1970s, my one foray into DIY had resulted in the humiliating experience of witnessing the wall-mounted can opener that I had screwed to the wall lasting for less than a day before it fell off ~ and so I had my doubts. As the saying goes, “Horses for courses.”

In the process of describing Waldau Castle it is next to impossible not to resort to words like strong, solid, robust, but it is only when you get inside that you are able to fully appreciate the exactitude with which these attributions apply. The windows, sitting as they do at the front of broad, deep brick arches, reveal the thickness of the walls to be at least three feet, and the quality of the brickwork, in all its restored glory, leaves you in little doubt that endurance and longevity have always been the castle’s watchwords.

But restoration in terms of visitor attraction is not confined to structural work. Also to be considered is, for want of a better word, the inclusion of suitable ‘props’, the seeking out, acquiring and emplacing of interior décor and household items best able to create a medieval atmosphere. Central to this objective, and situated in the main hall of the castle, are two suits of armour ~ a matching pair (I did not stop to check if it was ‘his’ and ‘hers’),  conjoined with wall-mounted hunting trophies, intricate tapestries and a ceiling pendant made from a heavy wooden wheel entirely surrounded by antler horns. I’ll have the full Hermann Göring baronial hunting-lodge works, please!

The tapestries, which are as colourful and imaginative as they are intricate, are made to order for the Sorokin family from specific patterns that they provide to a specialist company. Now that my wife had seen these, I wondered how long I would have to wait. It was not long: “I really want to buy one of these!” Olga exhaled.

Our tour guide was the oldest son of the Sorokin family, who not only had an incredible knowledge of the history of the castle, but was fluent, articulate and completely unphased when it came to holding court to so many adult strangers. My Russian gets better every day (I boast ye not), but my present knowledge was no match for the speed and confidence with which this young man discharged his verbal duty.

Our guide led us from the main hall into an adjoining room. There are no corridors, at least between rooms, in this part of Waldau Castle, thus access to the three great rooms at ground level is obtained on a door-to-room basis.

The second room, though large, was of smaller dimensions than the first, but as with the former had undergone extensive renovation and as with the former was work in progress.

From here we were taken into the kitchens, where, at the far end of the room, two hefty brick-built ovens encased in rusting white metal testified to the gargantuan task of cooking meals on a banquet scale. The ovens were quiet today and the castle interior cool, but one can imagine how unbearably hot and sweaty this environment would once have been when full of cooks and servants and the ovens in full swing.

In this room there was another oven. Tall, slim, far more elegant than the ones I have described, made of ebonised cast iron, with a succession of white porcelain knobs protruding from rows and layers of doors, this oven was of German manufacture. It had a German precision-build quality about it that was undeniably superior, and I should not imagine for one moment that anyone among our company was in the least surprised to learn that this fine example of industrial German craftsmanship, which is almost 170 years old, is as functional today as it was on the day it was made.

Antique German Stove
Not a grandfather clock!

Two other features in this kitchen that caught my eye were the heavy wooden serving hatch in the wall to the back of me and a nineteenth century iron ceiling column, with an intricately wrought Corinthian capital.

Whilst our young tour guide was fulfilling his duty, a man entered the room who was immediately recognisable to us. It was our friend Ivan. At first, I thought what a coincidence, and in a way I was right. I knew that Ivan was renovating an old German building of his own, but I had not realised that it was just up the road from Waldau Castle. And a second coincidence, it was his birthday, too.

We were greeting each other just as the tour guide was explaining about the intrinsic dangers of old building restoration. Apparently, in the process of their labours the Sorokin family had uncovered Schweinfurt paint, or Emerald Green as it was generically known.

Emerald Green was an extremely popular colour in the early nineteenth century. It was used in paint, wallpapers and a number of other pigmented and dyed products, and it was used extensively. But whilst most of us know about the dangers of friable asbestos, less people are acquainted with the fact that many old green paints and green-coloured wallpapers, those made from a compound in which arsenic was one of the main ingredients, could, did and can kill. Highly toxic when it was produced, the dust from this arsenic derivative continues to pose a serious threat to health and retains its lethal potential.

Right on cue, no sooner had our tour guide apprised our fellow tourers of this warning from the past, than a playful poltergeist or two, decided to shake the ceiling. A small amount of dust descended, enough to make our company beat a hasty retreat.

In the first room, where we had now re-assembled, I had noticed earlier that opposite the main entrance there was a carved, Gothic screen in wood, which, on closer investigation, I discovered was employed to separate the area in which we were standing from a corridor that ran the entire length of the back of the building. This was an unusual arrangement, at least it was not one that I was familiar with in the large historic houses and castles that I had visited in England. In the wall of the corridor, a few feet back from the screen, I also observed a great wooden staircase that could be closed off, if need be, by two incredibly large and heavy doors.

We were not privy to this section of the castle today or to its upper storeys, but I hope we may be allowed to explore at a later date.

There are many things that can inculcate a thirst, and history is one of them. A table in the main hall had been laid out with food, bottles of beer and cognac and, on the word ‘go’, it was every man for himself (I have no idea what the women were doing?). To accompany my cognac, I chose a large, flat, round bread roll, and was glad that I did. I cannot recall tasting bread half as delicious as this. The second surprise was that the baker of this delicacy turned out to be a young boy, the youngest son of the Sorokin family. When Olga praised him for the bread, he threw his arms around her and thanked her for her kind words, saying that it was the nicest thing that anyone had said to him. I endorsed her praise, adding Königsbacker beware!

Our friend Yury and I were in full flow about the quality of the beers when, in true Russian party fashion, it was announced that we all had to congregate outside on the drive to do something? When I discovered what that something was, an attempt by the hosts to dragoon us into a dance routine, I swiftly excused myself. Our friend Ivan followed my lead, but Yury stepped up to the challenge, and I was only too happy to play the part of photographer as he was twizzled around the tarmacadam.

Yury Grozmani demonstrating the art of Prussian folk dancing; and above, the talented boy who bakes the bread

We had not long been back inside, and not too far from the table, when a second announcement was made. It was now time to witness an operatic performance, which would take place on the granite stone courtyard at the front of the Sorokin house.

It would be dishonest of me to claim that I have any love or affection for opera, but, by the same token, it would be no less dishonest if I did not admit that I enjoyed this performance immensely. The Sorokin family’s house made a superb backdrop, the large open window with wrought-iron lattice work emitted the piano accompaniment perfectly and, from where we were sitting, gave us a first-rate view of the pianist at work.

I marvelled at the fact that the performers required no artificial amplification systems to project their voices, which were either remarkably well toned, aided by the acoustics of the building that lay behind them, or both.

Before the performance commenced, our friend, Yury Grozmani, delivered a speech as requested by the host, about the book he had researched and written on the vintage cars of Königsberg. Yury is what you would call a natural speech maker and, as he admitted himself, once fired up it was difficult for him to come back down.

Yury delivers a speech about the book that he worked on for 29 years

When both performances reached their respective conclusions, the tables were rearranged and laid out for supper. I refrained from indulging in the big iced cakes but was quite pleased that we had enough time and enough cognac left for one or two for the road before being chauffeured home in style by Arthur in his Volga.

Essential details (not of the party, but of Waldau Castle):

Waldau Castle
Kaliningradskaya Ulitsa, 20
Nizov’e,
Kaliningrad Oblast, 238313, Russia

Tel: 007 (963) 299-85-43

Opening hours
7 days a week ~ 10am~5pm

How to get there
By car, taxi, bus. The approximate journey time is 30 minutes

Copyright © 2018-2022 Mick Hart. All rights reserved.

Mick Hart & Yury Grozmani with Pobeda Kaliningrad

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021

“Я не хочу хвастаться, но мы пришли к финишу вторыми и отстали от победителя гонки всего лишь на несколько секунд!

Published: 13 June 2021 ~ Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад

Мы только что съехали с ухабистой, изрытой выбоинами проселочной дороги и снова выехали на главную магистраль. Наш водитель сдал назад.

“В современной машине такие повороты в порядке вещей, – сказал он, –
но для этой машины, у которой высокая посадка, это может быть опасно.
Видите ли, она легко может …”

Он остановился, когда мы свернули на крутой поворот.

“… легко перевернуться.”

Речь шла о машине 1956 года выпуска ГАЗ-М20 “Победа”. В машине имелись: коробка переключения скоростей, переднее сиденье, состоящее из двух частей, ветровое стекло, отделка под дерево, большие рабочие часы, кнопка индикатора движения в верхней центральной части приборной панели, небольшие боковые вентиляционные окна на передних пассажирских дверях и солнцезащитные откидные щитки. В машине также присутствовал ее владелец-водитель по имени Юрий Грозмани, а также я и моя жена Ольга.

Yury Grosmarni, Olga Hart & Mick Hart in Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Yuri Grozmarni, Olga Hart & Mick Hart: Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021

Причина, по которой мы находились в автомобиле, внимательно следя за временем и неотрывно сверяясь с навигационными картами, заключалась в том, что мы принимали участие в первом региональном ралли ретро-автомобилей калининградского автоклуба.

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021

Мы стартовали с приподнятой платформы для автомобилей ровно в 13.21. Тщательно рассчитанное время нашего путешествия от начала до конца составляло один час десять минут, не больше, не меньше – от фасада Кенигсбергского собора до Гвардейска. Все было рассчитано буквально до секунды. На пути было два контрольно-пропускных пункта, и прибытие на эти контрольно-пропускные пункты должно было точно совпадать с назначенным временем прибытия. Если вы опаздывали, вам нужно было жать ногой на акселератор; если же вы опережали время, вам нужно было убирать ногу с газа и выжидать время. Юрий был за рулем, я был штурманом, Ольга стала импровизированным вторым пилотом, сверяя показания времени на каждом этапе гонки со временем в её мобильном телефоне.

Для тех, у кого есть хотя бы элементарное понимание и умение читать карты, эта навигация стала бы пустяком, и даже для меня , у которого нет ни понимания, ни умения этого делать, не составило труда установить связь между четкими линиями с их символами в квадратах, а также с ориентирами и с их направлениями, и понять куда нам нужно было двигаться. Навигационные карты были составлены так просто, чтобы любой школьник смог ими воспользоваться. На каждой странице была таблица, разделенная на три части. В первой колонке отмечено  время, которое должно пройти от линии старта до прибытия в определенную точку пути, во второй колонке-простая, но четкая иллюстрация поворота или полосы движения, а в третьей колонке дополнительная информация, которая могла оказаться полезной, например, имя населенного пункта на указателе.

Навигационные карты Калининградского ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года
Навигационные карты Калининградского ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года

Вскоре я освоился с навигацией; жаль, что у меня это не получилось, когда дело дошло до сверки времени. Ни я ни Ольга, в школе не получили никаких наград по математике, мы даже призов не получили, и поэтому с первого запроса от водителя с требованием сколько времени осталось до первого контрольного пункта мы оба были в замешательстве. Расчетное время прибытия на первый контрольно-пропускной пункт составляло 31 минуту, и нам было трудно вычислить, сколько нам осталось времени с учетом пройденного маршрута. После того, как мы показали себя не с лучшей стороны, Юрий вмешался, и мы оба в конце концов согласились, что он был прав, мы не знали был ли он прав или не был так как подсчитать время мы так и не сумели.

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Мик Харт, Ольга Харт и Юрий Грозманиавтомобиль “Победа” 1956 год Калининград

Сегодня в Калининграде движение было не особенно интенсивным. У нас выдалось несколько напряженных моментов, когда мы свернули с однойглавной дороги на другую, особенно на дороге в непосредственной близости от стадиона, где проходил Чемпионата мира по футболу в Калининграде, но как только мы выехали на открытую дорогу, “Победа” рванулась вперед, как и подобает такому первоклассному автомобилю.

Мы сверили время и обнаружили, что несмотря на относительно удачный старт мы отстали от графика на несколько минут. Юрий нажал на газ. Через несколько минут мы сверили время опять и обнаружили, что, хотя мы ехали быстрее, время все же обгоняло нас. А потом появилась проселочная дорога, ведущая к первому контрольно-пропускному пункту.

“Победа” сошла с конвейера в 1946 году и в течение последующих трех лет претерпела ряд усовершенствований. Среди улучшенных, в 1949 году, новшеств “Победы” стала ее “подвеска для всех местностей”, и на этом участке дороги Юрий испытал ее. 64-летняя машина показала на что она способна, подвеска и губчатые сиденья  оказались более чем подходящими для алгоритма отскока, позволяя нам наслаждаться особенно привлекательным видом из окна – сельской местностью, изрезанной холмами, впадинами, озерами и живописными старыми немецкими зданиями.

Внезапно в поле зрения замаячил первый контрольно-пропускной пункт. И знаете что произошло? Мы опередили график на 60 секунд! Юрий остался невозмутимым; с темпераментом опытного танцора, он ослабил упор ноги и доставил нас на пункт назначения секунда в секунду! Зарегистрировавшись на контрольно-пропускном пункте, мы снова отправились в путь.

Мы опять поспорили о том, сколько времени у нас осталось до того, как мы должны прибыть на следующий контрольно-пропускной пункт. Где-то что-то было не так. Но я отказываюсь выяснять кто был прав, и кто неправ! Выяснилось, что между первым и вторым контрольно-пропускными пунктами у нас  было всего семь минут, очень немного времени для того чтобы расслабиться. Мы думали, что не успеваем, но на самом деле мы опережали.

Калининградское ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года. Приборная панель  "Победа" 1956 года выпуска
Калининградское ралли старинных автомобилей 2021 года. Приборная панель  “Победа” 1956 года выпуска

Прямо перед нами стояли две “Волги”, выехавшие из Кенигсберга раньше нас. Они обе свернули с дороги, вероятно, потому, что тоже опережали график, но, увидев нас поехали вперед.

На втором контрольно-пропускном пункте требовалось въехать во двор, сделать отметку в карточке, а затем снова выехать на дорогу. Машина впереди развернулась, но мы с Юрием сумели ее подрезать на контрольно-пропускном пункте. Я уверен, что это было сделано из хорошего намерения, но все же, нам ответили сигналом гудка.

Мы снова помчались вперед и у нас оставалось около 25 минут, чтобы добраться до финишной черты в Гвардейске. Гвардейск-небольшой городок с большой площадью, что делает его идеальным местом для проведения подобных мероприятий. В последний раз мы были здесь с моим младшим братом летом 2019 года с Авто Ретро-клубом, участвуя в международном фестивале “Золотая тень Кенигсберга”.

Нам с Ольгой нравится этот город. Он хорошо спланирован, имеет сбалансированную пропорцию немецкого и советского происхождения, несколько прекрасных старых готических зданий, музеи,специализированный сырный магазин, и в нем можно совершить прогулку вдоль живописного берега реки. Сегодня мы буквально не теряли времени, добираясь сюда, и нам пришлось помедлить, чтобы выждать несколько минут, прежде чем заехать на городскую площадь под шум ликующей толпы, музыку и щелканье камер.

Как только мы приехали, молодая дама преподнесла нам с Ольгой подарок. Это был большой круглый пирог с абрикосовым джемом, только что испеченный и еще теплый из духовки. Такие добрые жесты не остаются незамеченными.

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021
Мику Харту подарили большой пирог в Гвардейске, Калининградская область.
Юрий Грозмани и Мик Харт с большим пирогом Калининградское ралли винтажных автомобилей 2021

Так как мы живем в эпоху смартфонов, ФБ и блицкрига изображений, то нет нужды говорить, o том что не было никаких ограничений на количество фотографий, сделанных сначала на камеру одного человека, а затем на камеру другого, а затем с этими людьми, а затем с теми. Мы с Ольгой решили проветрить винтажную одежду, так что это была еще одна причина для того, чтобы иметь дело с папарацци. Однако мы все же нашли время ускользнуть.

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад 2021
Май 2021 года: Винтажные автомобили Калининградского Авто Ретро-клуба выстраиваются в линию в Гвардейске ~ Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад

Первым пунктом посещения был общественный туалет. Я странный, поэтому мне нравится использовать общественный туалет а Гвардейске. Для меня это настоящий советский опыт: спуститься по узкой лестнице, заплатить бабушке, сидящей на самодельном стуле-троне внизу, а затем повернуть направо в самодельный тронный зал. Я не могу представить себе ни одной поездки в Гвардейск без использования или, по крайней мере, посещения этого заведения.

Теперь пришло время для расслабляющей прогулки по городу, осмотра достопримечательностей, посещения сырного магазина и посиделок в старом дворе кошачьего заповедника, чтобы перекусить, любуясь иллюстрациями кошек и старинной немецкой атмосферой этого уединенного места.

У нас было даже больше свободного времени, чем мы себе представляли, поэтому я успел угостить себя мороженым, не больше, не меньше – с названием ‘CCCP’!

Когда мы вернулись на площадь, нас ждали желающие сфотографироваться. Именно здесь молодая женщина спросила, можно ли ей сфотографироваться с нами. Оказалось, что она хорошо владеет английским языком, и в процессе беседы она призналась, что мечтает уехать в Америку. Когда моя жена спросила, почему, она подумала, а потом сказала:

“Американская мечта”.

Мы ничего не сказали. Я помню, как Леонард Коэн сказал: “Но ты не хочешь лгать, только не молодым”. Кроме того, эта молодая женщина, должно быть, была либо чрезвычайно проницательна, либо она забыла надеть очки, так как она сказала, что я выглядел “красивым”. Ревновала ли моя жена? Я думаю, что эта реплика ее позабавила!

Перед тем как мы покинули Кенигсбергский собор, Юрий поднял красный флаг, сообщив нам, что у его машины возникли проблемы с системой охлаждения, но пока все хорошо: нет необходимости доливать воду. Однако незадолго до того, как мы покинули финишную черту, он наполнил бак топливом, и я был заинтригован, увидев, что он может проверить, сколько в баке, используя небольшой тестер, который он хранил в багажнике.

Мы покинули Гвардейск колонной с полицейским эскортом – от площади до границы города и под фанфары, еще более восторженные, чем те, что приветствовали нас по приезду. Старинные автомобили, похоже, оказывают такое воздействие на людей, вызывая уважение, любовь и удовольствие. Многие люди стоят на обочине дороги, фотографируя их на свои телефоны и снимая видео; люди в машинах сигналят и машут, когда проезжают мимо. Это прекрасно!

Сегодня, на обратном пути в Калининград, мы проезжали замок Вальдау, дорога к которому проходит параллельно главной магистрали, и когда мы откинулись на спинку сиденья, повернувшись лицом к дороге, по которой мы ехали, нам открылось великолепнейшее зрелище: машины клуба образовали длинную непрерывную процессию, полированный хром и краска блестели в лучах послеполуденного солнца, а автомобильные флаги с названием и логотипом клуба великолепно развевались на ветру.

К сожалению, замок Вальдау сегодня будет только проездом, но не успели мы въехать на его территорию, как я почувствовал ощущение де жавю. Это было так глубоко, волнующе и органично, что этот знакомый призыв из давно минувших дней захватил меня полностью. Ольга была того же мнения, и поэтому выразила неудовольствие, когда обнаружила, что сегодня нет времени для дальнейшего осмотра территории. “Мы вернемся!” – утверждала она, продолжая ворчать на меня Юрию за то, что он ”никогда никуда не хочет идти … просто сидит на чердаке и пишет”. Как человек, которому журналистика не чужда, я знал, что Юрий меня поймет.

Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
Автомобили Авто Ретро Клуба в Замке Валдау ~ Калининградское ралли Винтажных автомобилей 2021

Территория перед замком Вальдау не такая обширная, как можно было бы ожидать, на самом деле она похожа на рощу, образуя центральный остров из деревьев и травы, с дорогой идущей внутрь и тропинкой на противоположной стороне. Подъездная дорожка расширяется перед зданием, и по мере того, как машины одна за другой и очень медленно въезжали на эту более широкую территорию, группа из пяти дам, выстроившихся в дверях замка, приветствовала их, махала руками и смеялась, когда каждая машина проезжала мимо. Эта веселая группа была одета в прусском стиле и играла свою роль так убедительно и с такой искренностью что когда каждая машина сворачивала за угол, пассажиры были поражены искренностью этого приветствия. Их искренность освещала лица, как будто кто-то превратил их лица в человеческие фонари. Никто, кроме президента клуба, Артура, который метался, пытаясь вместить слишком много машин в недостаточно большое пространство, и явно преуспевал в этом деле, не остался непосвященным. Веселье было заразительным и распространялось, как стремительный лесной пожар. Даже внушительное готическое здание не могло изобразить неодобрения, здесь было так много веселья, даже больше чем веселье, как будто к вам во всех нужных местах прикасалась Молл Фландерс.

Сотрудники в традиционных прусских костюмах приветствуют старинные советские автомобили в замке Валдау, Калининградская область
Сотрудники в традиционных прусских костюмах приветствуют старинные советские автомобили в замке Валдау, Калининградская область
Мик Харт и Ольга Харт с сотрудниками замка Вальдау 29 мая 2021 года
Мик Харт и Ольга Харт с сотрудниками замка Вальдау 29 мая 2021 года
 

От замка вереница разъехалась, и каждая машина отправилась по своему предпочтительному маршруту обратно к Кенигсбергскому собору, чтобы снова встретится у входа в собор под аплодисменты и приветствия, достойные героев-завоевателей.

У нас было достаточно времени до момента истины, чтобы перекусить в одной из закусочных, выпить кофе и отдохнуть на деревянной скамейке которая располагалась в лучшем месте, освещенном солнцем. До момента, когда мы узнаем кто прошел курс идеально, вписался во временные рамки и занял одно из трех призовых мест.

Для победителей были приготовлены три главных трофея, а также кубки меньшего размера и сертификаты для тех, кто справился с заданием не так хорошо, как им бы хотелось бы, но был награждён за участие.

Мы заняли второе место, будучи всего в одной секунде от первого.

Как только наш статус был объявлен, мы сели обратно в “Победу”, и Юрий, ловко и на скорости завел машину на приподнятый автомобильный пандус так красиво, что я мог бы только мечтать о таком высшем пилотаже.

Это было время принятия призов и выступлений. 

Для меня это была нелегкая задача. Я был единственным англичанином в гонке, и я не собирался навязывать ни толпе, стоящей передо мной, ни себе, мой несравненно плохой русский язык. Это означало, что мне придется обращаться к толпе по-английски. Я уверен, что в толпе, стоявшей передо мной, должен был быть один или два человека, которые поймут, о чем я говорю. Например, там была моя жена, которая никогда меня не понимает. Так почему же я решил что она начнет понимать меня сейчас? Тем не менее, после того как я закончил свою краткую речь, Юрий сделал краткий перевод.

Это был долгий день, полезный день, совсем необычный день. Как говорится, все случается в первый раз, и мы получили огромное удовольствие от этого первого раза!”

Мик Харт и Юрий Грозмани получают трофей на Калининградском ралли ретро-автомобилей 29 мая 2021 года
Мик Харт и Юрий Грозмани получают трофей на Калининградском ралли ретро-автомобилей 29 мая 2021 года Калининград Винтажралли Восток-Запад
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Авторские права © 2018-2021 Мик Харт. Все права защищены.

1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad

See 1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad

Running boards ~ and the rest!

Published: 7 May 2021 ~ See 1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad

On the 29 April 2021, my wife, Olga, and I were invited to attend the Kaliningrad Retro Car Club’s classic car rally, which was being held at Fort XI (Fort Dönhoff), the best preserved fort of Königsberg’s outer defensive circle. I wrote about Fort Dönhoff in an earlier post, and one of the attractions of revisiting it was to see to what extent it had  developed in terms of restoration and as a regional tourist attraction.

Needles to say, whilst there we snapped a good many photographs, both of the fort itself and of the cars exhibited.

One car that we photographed was not included in the photographic ensemble depicted in my last post, as it is not, as far as I can ascertain, owned by a member of the Retro Car Club and, besides, it is such an unusual vehicle to be stationed in this part of the world that I think that it deserves a post of its own.

See 1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad

As you will see from the photographs provided, the car in question is a 1930s’ American Buick ~ a must for anyone fascinated with early-to-mid 20th century American automobiles and the history of the period from the prohibition to the pre-war era.

I confess that I haven’t done my background work on this vehicle, but I am sure that there are any number of vintage automobile enthusiasts out there who will know exactly what model it is and its year of manufacture (most likely 1938?).

I did ask one of the Kaliningrad Retro Car Club members and received the indignant snort that “it [the car] is only a shell!” From which I understood that it is minus its engine. But even so, what a shell!

Posing next to it I wished I had worn my 1930s’ suit and Fedora and that I had retained a 1920s’ Thompson submachine gun from the days when I dealt in that sort of thing (deactivated, of course!). But without these props it was gratifying enough to be told that with the car in the background my wife and I could pass for Bonnie and Clyde.

Hmmm, I’m not sure whether our flatterer meant that we looked like the Bonnie and Clyde or the owners of Bonny’s Chip Shop in the Port of Barrow near Clyde?

But what the heck! Even a back-handed compliment is better than no compliment! And anyway, who could hope to upstage such an epoch-making vehicle as this!

1930s Buick at Fort XI

See 1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad

1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad
1930s Buick Kaliningrad rear view
1930s Buick at Fort XI Kaliningrad
Dashboard 1930s' Buick
Horn & headlight 1930s' Buick
Rear light fitting 1930s' Buick
Mick Hart & Olga Hart with 1930s Buick Kaliningrad

*****************************

Essential details:

Fort XI Dönhoff
Ulitsa Energetikov
Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad Oblast 236034

Tel: +7 4012 39 04 61
Web: https://fortDönhoff.ru/en/

Opening times:
The fort is open every day:
Summer from 10am to 6pm; Winter from 10am to 5pm

Admission:
300 roubles
Discount tickets 150 roubles (pupils and students, retirees, veterans of the Great Patriotic War, the disabled)
Free admission for children under 7 years old

Sightseeing tours:
Tours are provided free of charge
On weekdays tours take place daily at 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm
At weekends and holidays at 11am 12 noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm and 5pm
Approximate duration of tour is one hour
For groups of more than 10 people, advanced booking is required. Tel: +7 401 239 0699

Fort XI Website: https://fortDönhoff.ru/en/

For more background information on Fort Dönhoff, see my earlier post: https://expatkaliningrad.com/fort-donhoff-kaliningrad/

Copyright © 2018-2022 Mick Hart. All rights reserved.

Fort XI Kaliningrad Hosts Retro Car Club

Fort XI Kaliningrad Hosts Retro Car Club Day

Fort XI (Fort Dönhoff) Revisited

Published: 29 April 2021 ~ Fort XI Kaliningrad

The classic cars had been assembled in two parallel lines. Even though there were as many as 15 or 20, they were lost, engulfed by the vast piece of open ground on which they were parked in front of a landmark that has earnt itself the dubious reputation of being Kaliningrad’s most ugly whilst, ironically, most iconic post-war building.

I am referring, of course, to that concrete anomaly that replaced the beauty that was Königsberg Castle, the House of Soviets ~ a building much loved by western journalists in their quest to mythicise Russian austerity, and for all those who earnestly believe that nothing ever changes for the better, a reassuring reminder that their nihilism is not unfounded.

House of Soviets Kaliningrad
‘H’ for House of Soviets ~ it has the same ambiguous appeal as Marmite

Fort XI Kaliningrad: Retro Car Club Day

The classic cars lined up on the paved expanse belonged to members of the Kaliningrad Retro Car Club. The cars were standing in front of the House of Soviets as a prelude to being driven cavalcade fashion on to Fort Dönhoff, the eleventh of the twelve forts that form the outer ring of the city of Königsberg’s nineteenth century defence system.

As we were a few minutes early for kick-off, I used the time available to snap a few pictures, both of the cars and the House of Soviets. Rumour has it that after 50 years of non-occupation due to its having been constructed on ancient tunnels that rendered it unsafe the moment it was built (and yet it is still here?), the days of the controversial House of Soviets may be finally numbered. I can hear Elton singing “I’m still standing” and Leonard Cohen reminding us that “You hear these funny voices in the Tower of Song …”

Camper Van Kaliningrad Retro Car Club

How chilly it was on this late April day can be calculated from the thin blue palate of the sky and the fluffy white clouds skating across its surface. The breeze was slight, but whenever the sun disappeared behind one of these cotton-wool splodges, the 8 degrees that we had been promised by the weatherman dipped, and the chill factor bit home.

Nevertheless, after twelve months or more consigned for the most part to barracks on account of coronavirus, it was good to be out and about again, even quite amazing to be standing there permissibly in such an open and public space, with the tall buildings of the city in the background, the traffic bustling past and on the near horizon the always edifying and noble turret of Königsberg Cathedral.

Königsberg Cathedral view from House of Soviets
Königsberg Cathedral as seen from the former castle site ~ Kaliningrad, April 2021

Now that all the crew had arrived, it was time that we set off, and today we were in for a treat. We would be travelling to Fort XI in our friend Arthur’s Volga.

I have had the opportunity to ride in two or three Volga classics since moving to Russia. I love the typical 1960s’ interior — the low-slung front bench seat, the colour scheme that replicates that of the car’s exterior, the busy chromium dashboard, column-change gear stick, and, most of all, the arched transparent speedometer which, in its hey day, was as space-age chic as Sputnik (see first image in this post).

Unfortunately, Arthur’s speedo has the irritating tendency when the car is in motion to chatter a lot, and as we accelerated on the outskirts of the city, the chattering  increased with such velocity that Inara, Arthur’s wife, in a refreshing moment of complete indifference to the repressive nature of political correctness, made as if the noise was coming from a car-mounted submachine gun. For a fleeting second it looked as though she was wearing a small moustache and was that a wave she was giving or a rather silly salute?

Despite this fantasy, there was little doubt that we were not travelling in a 1939 Mercedes-Benz 770 Grosser Offener Tourenwagenas, not least because I have it on good authority that the suspension on this particular vehicle has a solid retaining quality, whereas, in my opinion, the Volga’s suspension is spongey, tending to rock the car about on Kaliningrad’s variable road surface like an afternoon romp on a waterbed.

From consideration of the vehicle’s suspension, I then found myself asking did Volgas, indeed any Russian cars of this period, have powered steering? I ask this question as it is a mystery to me whether our driver, Arthur, wrestles with the steering wheel because he has no choice, because it is required, or simply because it is his adopted driving style?

I do know that other drivers were pleased to see the old girl on the road ~ and I don’t mean my wife. Numerous cars tooted respectfully at the unusual sight of the senior citizen bouncing across the city ~ and I do mean the car, not me.

Fort XI Kaliningrad by retro car

We were jolting along the approach road to Fort XI, when our hitherto uneventful journey took a dramatic turn for the worst. Suddenly, Arthur switched off the engine, and we coasted the last few metres, arriving at the side of the carpark under a cloud of steam.

Thankfully, the fault was not a serious one. The articulated radiator screen, which should have been open, had closed itself, either because of a broken piece of wire or for want of a screw (steady!). Whichever it was, willing helpers from the car club were immediately on hand and the problem was resolved within minutes, demonstrating how, when cars were honestly mechanical, not stuffed with computerised gismos as they are today, all it would take was a little know-how, a spanner and a screwdriver and a quick-fix would be implemented.

Kaliningrad Retro Car Club

Arrival at Fort XI Kaliningrad

As we rolled past the perimeter gate of Fort Dönhoff, with the soldier’s grave to the left and the Soviet barb-wired emplacements to the right, I recalled my first visit to this heritage site back in 2015 and our last visit, which took place at the end of January 2020.

I wondered how this massive conservation/renovation programme had fared during the past 15 coronavirus months and how badly if at all the pandemic restrictions had affected business. Taking into consideration Russia’s nationwide policy to boost home tourism, whatever the downside, I reasoned, it had to be a good deal less dramatic than the impact Covid restrictions is having on business in western Europe.

Once the cars had been lined up exhibition fashion in front of the left arm of the fort, Olga and I decided to go and see what changes had taken place since we were last here.

Fort XI Kaliningrad Hosts Retro Car Club Day
Cars in the process of being lined up at the front of the fort
BMW Outside Fort XI Kaliningrad
Bring on the BMWs!
Olga Hart with Volkswagen Fort XI Kaliningrad
A German fort has to have a Volkswagen

I recalled Arthur ~ not Arthur of Kaliningrad Retro Club fame, but Arthur the man in charge of Fort XI’s reincarnation ~ saying on our last visit that he visualised one corridor inside the fort becoming a trading and exhibition street, so we decided to check this out first, stopping off on the way to rekindle some warmth over a cup of tea in the fort’s cafeteria.

Fort XI Kaliningrad developments

The vison of the ‘street’ had indeed been brought to fruition and atmospherically so. On our previous visit, you had to appreciate the vision with little vision, as the tunnel was lightless. But now illumination there was, set just at the right level so that you could see what you needed to see without compromising atmosphere.

I apologise to anybody if I have omitted them and their enterprise from this list, but, working from memory, on one side of the street the chambers leading from the main tunnel housed an antique shop, a coffee shop, a jewellers and amber specialist’s shop, an exhibition of military items leading to an evocative display at the base of the melted staircase (see my previous post on Fort XI Dönhoff) and a ‘rifle range’. On the opposite side the vaulted rooms had been opened up to allow access to the curious: one long, arched chamber contained haunting images of Königsberg as it had been before the war and as it was later, after the RAF had bombed it and after the battle for the city; whilst another room, judging by the cumbersome apparatus contained within it, appeared to be the fort’s original boiler house.

  • Fort XI Kaliningrad
  • Trading Street Fort XI Kaliningrad
  • Antique Shop Fort XI Kaliningrad
  • Cafe Fort XI
  • Branch Tunnel Fort XI
  • Grid Iron Doors Fort XI Kaliningrad
  • Shooting Range Fort XI Kaliningrad

Each room in the fortress is lovingly festooned with educational wall boards, which no doubt inform you of each exhibit and the interdependence that each room had to the fort’s military effectiveness, but, alas, as my ability to translate Russian is not as good as it should be I had to rely for the most part on my own perspicacity. And, it would seem, as my eyesight is not as good as it once was, I completely failed to notice that the newly erected ‘you are here’ boards, strategically placed in the tunnels and corridors, are all equipped with English translations. So, like the explorers of old, I plotted my course with vicissitude!

The past’s presence in Fort XI Kaliningrad

Standing once again in the main tunnel, taking my photographs, I became aware of the strange hush that descends on visitors once they have been swallowed up inside the fort’s subterranean maze, the possible joint consequence of acoustic absorption by the high, arched ceilings, the awesome madness of the construction in terms of sheer size and scale and the impenetrability of trying to imagine what it would have been like to have been a soldier stationed here, sentenced to serve and live in the echoing twilight of this vast brick warren.

Atmospheric Fort XI Kaliningrad
Relics of War Fort XI Kaliningrad
Relics of war …

Consulting my inbuilt compass, which seems to work on the principal of a magnetic attraction to vodka, I returned to the comparative warmth of the outside world and on the way met Arthur, architect of the fort’s restoration.

We had ‘bumped into’ him and his wife earlier in the café where we had briefly discussed ‘work ongoing’ and, meeting with him now, were privileged to be offered a tour of some of the other parts of the fort that we had visited last year, to see the changes that had been made.

The rooms and associated area focusing upon Königsberg’s war-time history and the fort’s involvement in the siege of Königsberg had undergone a rationalised re-configuration. The cabinet and wall displays of WWII Soviet weaponry, uniformed mannequins and such had been added to and re-assigned, and a wheel-mounted machine gun ~ possibly a DShK 1938 ~ took pride of place in the centre of the room (the sight of such a weapon would be enough to throw our British-Soviet re-enactors into uncontrollable raptures!). Likewise, the study area, complete with white board and electronic visual and auditory equipment, had been tweaked and moved to a better location. Last year these rooms had been good; now they were professional.

Our next stop was a large room, composed of three or four chambers, which, I seem to recall from our last visit, had been used for social functions. Indeed, this spacious room, with its grand open fireplace, would seem to make the perfect place for venues. However, we learnt today that it had been reassigned as a museum of fortification, whose educational resources were to be augmented using state-of-the-art virtual-reality.

As exciting as this promised to be, I have to admit I was disappointed. I suppose because I saw this room as the right place for a Wetherspoon’s pub ~ but, hey now, isn’t that typically me!

Fireplace Fort XI Kaliningrad

What our small party agreed on was that the rooms and corridors into which we had been shown were nice and warm, but lordy! — imagine how difficult and how expensive it must be to heat something of this magnitude!

From this suite of rooms we were taken outside across one of the interior grassed quadrangles, along a block-paved path to a door in one of the adjacent banks. I could see as we approached that this entrance had been tidied up and, indeed, fitted with one of Fort XI’s signature gridiron doors, two in fact, the interior one serving as an airlock to keep in the warmth from the central heating.

Inside, electric lighting clearly testified to the fact that a great deal of work had been undertaken in restoring the brickwork both in the walls and the floor. Apparently, each brick had been painstakingly cleaned by hand.

A spiral staircase inset in the wall led into a long chamber, wide enough to hold two tiers of desks. Above this chamber, accessible by the same staircase, lies a second chamber of identical proportions. And in each, as in almost every room in the fort, there are professionally designed and attractive wall-mounted information boards.

It looked like a school, and it was. Once complete, this combination of rooms is destined to facilitate Fort XI’s Spy School ~ an educational experience from which one will eventually graduate knowing all there is to know about the art, science and history of spying. Call me Maxwell Smart, I thought, as we descended the spiral staircase.

On our way back to base, I praised Arthur for the sterling work he and his crew had achieved in the past year, to which he graciously but wryly responded, as he did last year, there is still a great deal to do, adding that his reward for orchestrating the never-ending project lay in the cultural service that he was providing.

That is the joy of spending time with time travellers and historians. It is not just their knowledge that attracts but their love of the past in whatever form it takes to float their boat, and that obviously goes for cars as well.

Russian classic car enthusiasts are no different from their British counterparts in this respect, although, needless to say, in Russia the social dimension shines. The car club is just that: a club. The people all club together, muck in together, bring food, tea, coffee and picnic tables to each venue that they inhabit, ensuring that the day becomes an enjoyable social occasion.  

On this occasion, music was also provided courtesy of a vintage USSR radio, and for those of us who were passengers, and thus relieved of the responsibility of being behind the wheel, vodka was also at hand. Don’t drink and drive! This is how the slogan went. Wise words indeed. Could this be the reason why I gave up driving years ago?

  • Group Photo Kaliningrad Retro Car Club
  • Mick Hart with Kaliningrad Retro Car Club
  • Mick & Olga Hart Kaliningrad Retro Car Club
  • Mick Hart Kaliningrad Retro Car Club
  • Mick Hart Kaliningrad Retro Car Club
  • Olga Hart & Inara Kaliningrad Retro Car Club

After Arthur’s tour, we made our way back to our retro club friends, who were enjoying the sunshine in spite of the chill that its presence had failed to entirely eradicate.

Some of the car owners had brought along Soviet-era samovars: big, nickel-plated kettles with chimneys on the top. This would be the first time that I would get to see them in action.

Olga Hart with samovar Fort XI Kaliningrad

Olga and I have always wanted a samovar, so that we can react the counting-the-stars scene in Hedgehog in the Fog.

At present, we only have a couple of plug-in electric samovars, which are all well and good as curiosity pieces, but to enjoy the real experience of tea-making using a samovar you really do have to feed it with made-to-measure kindling wood, then stand back whilst the water boils and watch as the chimney smokes!

The carnival atmosphere around the car and picnic tables also seemed to appeal to the fort’s four legged critters. It brought out the resident funny bunnies and, not to be left out, even a duck got in on the act.

Teased by the sun and a sporadic stiff breeze, the day had all the makings of being a cold one, but the warmth of human interaction, good company and a genuine sense of camaraderie ~ all of the human values that coronavirus restrictions have threatened to deprive us of over the past 12 months ~ proved their vital importance, reminding us in timely fashion that there is only one true normal, which if taken away leaves nothing.

The historic setting added its own unique ambience. Fort XI is an inspiration —the perfect place to realise that there is no time like the past. It is a true gateway into Königsberg and its region; an ongoing restoration project of no small magnitude celebrating history even as it continues to be history in the making.

On the subject of time, I am not sure what the soldiers billeted here in their past-present thought of our antics today, but with history being so vibrant and so alive within the walls of Dönhoff, you feel you can almost ask them? Perhaps when you visit you will?

Fort XI Kaliningrad uniform display

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Essential details:

Fort XI Dönhoff
Ulitsa Energetikov
Kaliningrad
Kaliningrad Oblast 236034

Tel: +7 4012 39 04 61
Web: https://fortDönhoff.ru/en/

Opening times:
The fort is open every day:
Summer from 10am to 6pm; Winter from 10am to 5pm

Admission:
300 roubles
Discount tickets 150 roubles (pupils and students, retirees, veterans of the Great Patriotic War, the disabled)
Free admission for children under 7 years old

Sightseeing tours:
Tours are provided free of charge
On weekdays tours take place daily at 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm
At weekends and holidays at 11am 12 noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm and 5pm
Approximate duration of tour is one hour
For groups of more than 10 people, advanced booking is required. Tel: +7 401 239 0699

Fort XI Website: https://fortDönhoff.ru/en/

For more background information on Fort Dönhoff, see my earlier post: https://expatkaliningrad.com/fort-donhoff-kaliningrad/

Copyright © 2018-2021 Mick Hart. All rights reserved.

Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad 2021 Calendar

Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad 2021 Calendar

2021 calendar celebrates classic cars of Russia

Published: 15 December 2020

It was during the summer months this year that our friend Sergey Goryunov invited us to take part in a photoshoot which he was organising with a view towards producing a 2021 calendar for the members of Kaliningrad’s Auto Retro Club.

The photo session was scheduled to take place at 6am, which meant that we had to wake up at 4am, and it was just my luck that the night before I had experienced one of my life-long bouts of insomnia. It was not a case of can I drag myself out of bed in time, rather should I be dragging myself into it.

As the photographer was on standby, the vintage car organised and the venue prescribed, the effort had to be made and, in spite of myself, it was good to have the opportunity to get dressed up again in our vintage attire and to take part in this capital retro project.

Related topic: The Vintage Cars of Königsberg

Sergey Goryunov picked us up in his Volga GAZ  21 R (1966). It was fairly quiet in Kaliningrad at that time of day, but as we drove through the main streets the sight of Sergey’s vintage Volga attracted toots of appreciation from other motorists as we passed by.

The location for the photoshoot was none other than the concourse at the foot of the steps to the old German Stock Exchange. Whilst we were happy to co-star, the real star of the show was the Moskvich 401 (1956), whose immaculate condition at the age of 64 made my condition feel somewhat tarnished!

Everything went without a hitch, and a few days ago we received notification from Sergey that the calendar had been printed.

Praise where praise is due, the commitment of the car club members, particularly with regard to their vintage outfits, was highly commendable, but the lion’s share of the work, and consequently recognition for vision, planning and organisation, rests with Sergey Goryunov, without whose sterling efforts the calendar would not have been possible ~ oh, and whilst we are at it, let’s don’t forget the cars!

2021 Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad

Link to 2021 Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad Calendar

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Speech by Sergey Goryunov at the official launch of the 2021 Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad

Sergey Goryunov: “The year is coming to an end. I would like to introduce my child — the 2021 Club Calendar of the Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad. We have focused on the GAZ-21, including the epoch-making ‘Muscovites’ and the legendary Pobeda cars for this photo series, using models from inside the club. Accompanying the cars are their owners and their teammates. Titanic work has been accomplished. Filming locations were located throughout the region, and the shooting itself was conducted at different times of the year. Three photographers worked on the calendar. Of course, this project would not have been possible without the enthusiasm of its participants, who, despite the pandemic, at my first call, got up in the early hours, preened, dressed themselves in retro clothes and rushed to the shooting location. We did it! Hurray!”

Auto Retro Club Kaliningrad 2021 Calendar

Copyright © 2018-2021 Mick Hart. All rights reserved.