Mick Hart Kings Gate Königsberg - Expat in Kaliningrad, Russia

Kaliningrad a Place of Architectural Contrasts

February 8^th 2020 was a big day in Kaliningrad, to be more precise, it was Big Sausage Day*. Reputedly, it is the day that the ladies of Kaliningrad walk around with smiles upon their faces and quite a lot of the men most sensibly stay at home (source: anonymous). But not me. Unfazed by the reports of a giant object of cylindrical length being disported on the open streets, I set out, in defiance of the Vegetarian Society, one day late as usual.

The Big Sausage fest has become so popular here in recent years that it has undergone an extension, turning it effectively from a Big Sausage Day into a Big Sausage Weekend. Unfortunately, the huge and eponymous object makes its debut on Saturday morning. This year we had been invited to attend on Sunday and last year both I and our invitee were too hungover to attend. So, instead of reviewing how the Big Sausage went and where it went, I am going to make a few comments instead on the much-vaunted subject of ‘Kaliningrad: a place of contrasts’.

This expression is a stock-in-trade of most travelogues where Kaliningrad is concerned, and why not? It is a good one. The term is often applied to the striking and very often incongruous juxtaposition of architectural forms here in Kaliningrad.

Kaliningrad architectural contrasts

The connection between a whopping great sausage and architecture is not as obtuse as first it may seem. On the second day of this weekend’s event, the Big Sausage, understandably exhausted from Saturday’s exertions, goes into hiding, allowing the festivities to continue in a more circumscribed place. The venue this year was in the paved area surrounding one of Konigsberg’s restored monuments, the King’s Gate (more of which at another time).

Kaliningrad a place of architectural contrasts — Königsberg ‘s KIng’s Gate & Kaliningrad’s Soviet flats ~ a City of contrasts. Notice the old tram tracks!

Kaliningrad King’s Gate

You can see from the photograph supplied, the red-brick Gothic structure of the King’s Gate in the foreground (photographed from the back) and there in the background a long row of 1970s’ Soviet-built flats. Needless to say, the world’s most renowned architects eschew these rather than applaud them, but, like them or not, they are all part and parcel of Königsberg-Kaliningrad’s diverse and rich history.

In my humble vegetarianskee opinion, these flats could be employed to good purpose this time next year. By attaching a giant inflatable sausage from the rooftops, running from one end to the other, the venue for Second Sausage Day would be unmissable and the advertising potential for certain types of products phenomenal. Food for thought?

*The Long Sausage holiday has a long tradition. The medieval holiday was first held in Königsberg in 1520. Königsberg’s butchers cooked 16 metre’s of sausage and carried it around the city. The participants then ate the sausage, drank beer and danced. Today, the people of Kaliningrad continue the old tradition and enjoy the holiday of old Königsberg .