{"id":300,"date":"2020-01-03T15:40:30","date_gmt":"2020-01-03T15:40:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/?p=300"},"modified":"2020-02-22T07:15:10","modified_gmt":"2020-02-22T07:15:10","slug":"exploring-svetlogorsk","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/exploring-svetlogorsk\/","title":{"rendered":"Exploring Svetlogorsk"},"content":{"rendered":"
<\/div>\n

Exploring Svetlogorsk<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

28 December 2000<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201c\u2026 and\nthen, to top it all off, they passed the bill to me!\u201d This was Joss recounting\nhis adventures the night before over breakfast, which was ~surprise, surprise ~\na Russian version of cold meats and cheeses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSo,\u201d I clarified,\n\u201cyou all had plenty of food and the most expensive whisky and brandy and they\n(his hosts) asked you to pay the bill?\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cNo,\u201d he\nsnorted, \u201cThey ordered what they wanted and then simply shoved the bill in my\ndirection. What could I do? I couldn\u2019t say anything as I can\u2019t speak the\nlingo!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cHow about,\n\u2018How much is a crash course in Russian?\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There is something extremely satisfying about an inveterate bill dodger being caught out at his own game!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Previous article: The Hotel Russ, Svetlogorsk<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Related: The Hotel Russ<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exploring Svetlogorsk<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

It had stopped\nsnowing, but the temperature had dropped. Some grit had been applied to the Russ\npathway but beyond that it was fairly treacherous underfoot.  Across the road from the Russ the silver birch\nwoodland was as picturesque as one could wish for, the floor covered in a thick\nbed of snow and the treetops artistically crystalised.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Joss<\/figure>
\n

Joss Hart in the silver birch tree wood opposite the Hotel Russ, Svetlogorsk, year 2000. (Photo is blurred because of the quality of an old-world camera and a couple of hangovers.) Note the traditional Soviet hat!.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The walk into town took us on a route passed buildings of a most curious nature, each one different from the other. Immediately next to the Russ, on the same side of the road, there was another hotel, half-completed but with the front section, which was of concrete-block construction, yet windowless, over which a  large crane hovered.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Svetlogorsk architecture<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

On the left\nside of the road, there were three or four new-builds, the architectural style of\nwhich varied immensely from building to building but all incorporating some or\nmixed elements of Gothic,  Baroque and\nNeo-Classicism. The pastiche shouted conspicuous affluence, the contrasting\nstyles sitting uneasily with each other but rendered plausible thanks to their salutary\nregard for the East Prussian influence from which they had sprung.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Exploring
Grand house, Svetlogorsk, December 2000<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

On the right side of the road, the majority of houses were older and much more simple and humble. These were small one-storey buildings, possibly dating to the early 20th<\/sup> century, but with small windows in the gable end suggesting attic space above and most, if not all, having (shock and alarm in England!!) corrugated asbestos roofs.  There was a shanty-town down-at-heel honesty about these dwellings, with their hotchpotch of wooden porches built on during the Soviet era and lean-tos in various states of semi-collapse. On the corner of this road, same side and opposite to an as of yet incomplete new-build with Gothic tower, stood a large, unseemly concrete and brick block of flats, each floor equipped with integral and continuous open balcony. It may have been the middle of winter, but this had not prevented someone from stringing up a line, from which their washing hung stiff and frozen in the rapidly descending temperature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acclimatised\nto the never-ending sameness of British weather, where seasons meld into one, we\nwere intrigued to learn that today the temperature had dropped to -10 degrees.\nThe snow was very crisp under foot and treacherous ice patches kept us ever vigilant\nin our quest to avoid one of those embarrassing arse-over-head experiences. As\nwe turned into the long road to the town, the pavement was the proverbial\naccident waiting to happen. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"New
New Russian House c.2000. No longer in existence c.2020??<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This road contained few houses on the left; on the right there were some beautiful, genuine old houses, small, set back inside woodland groves. What houses there were on the left were extravagant in every sense ~ large, out of proportion with their neighbours, bristling with different-sized windows on every conceivable level and surrounded by high, black wrought-iron fences. These were the properties of New Rich Russians, a term which in those times was used pejoratively. I was to encounter this label often over the next few days, and it would be used in a tone that was as cold as the ambient temperature. It seemed to me that the inherent contempt was a hang-back to the Soviet-era\u2019s emphasis on a level society in which any hierarchical structure, as defined by wealth or class, was frowned upon as being dangerously bourgeoisie, smacked of Capitalist individualism and was tainted by the trappings of conspicuous consumption.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exploring Svetlogorsk ~ Commemorative Chapel<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

We continued to walk. This road was a long one, with no deviation. By and by we stopped beside a small clearing in which an unassuming white chapel set in grounds away from the road could be seen. This building had a sad and tragic history to it, as it marked the spot where a Soviet plane crashed into a school building back in 1972.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Mick
Mick Hart & Olga outside the Commemorative Chapel in Svetlogorsk , year 2000<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Now on the\nleft, we were walking past a large open square which had what looked to be a\nmakeshift stage on one side and on the other the little caf\u00e9-bar which we had\nfrequented the night before. A few yards down from this we passed a couple more\nhistoric Svetlogorsk houses, fronted by snow-filled gardens adjacent to the\nroad, and here we were in the centre of Svetlogorsk. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The centre\nwas basically a wider, more open area situated or build around a crossroads. On\nour right there was a caf\u00e9-bar, across the road on our left a shop, on the\nopposite side of the road in front of us a small, modern (glass and\nsteel-framed) snack bar and, on the opposite side of the road, a large, non-descript,\nuniform municipal building. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Olga steered us off to the right, where we passed a glass-fronted restaurant. On the opposite side of the road stood two Prussian blocks of wooden-framed buildings, shutters on either sides of the windows and pretty carved fascia boards above, the latter festooned with rows and clusters of icicles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We were now\nheading towards the \u2018front\u2019, and to do this we would have to descend along a broad\npathway that snaked its way down the steep banks to the promenade. The wind\nwhipped across this section of coastline and, although buffered by the woodland\non either side of us and in spite of our extra layers of clothing, was\ninhospitable enough to force us to take shelter in the nearest place dispensing\nwarmth, hot food and beverages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At this\ntime, Svetlogorsk promenade was serviced by one caf\u00e9 only (a far cry from\ntoday!). According to my diary, what I liked best about this cafe was the coat\nand hat-check facility. This was not something that we were used to in the\nprovincial part of England where we hailed from, and the elegant formality of\nit seemed to belong to an altogether more refined and bygone era. My \u2018second\nfirst\u2019 in this caf\u00e9 was an introduction to the Russian menu. Unlike in England,\nwhere the fare is typed  on the front and\nback of a piece of card, the average Russian menu was so extensive that it was\npresented to you in the form of a large book, covered in simulated leather\n~  a weighty tome, indeed, which would\nnot look out of place should Eamon Andrews be handing it to you (showing my age\nagain). Every page of this wonderful book was rammed with meaty delights,\ncooked and served in every way imaginable; salivating stuff indeed if you happened\nto be a carnivore, but if it so happened that you had renounced consumption of\nanimal flesh, as I had, then this great big book was woefully short of grub. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Englishmen & Vegetarians <\/h3>\n\n\n\n

At this\ntime vegetarianskee  options were a long\nway from catching on in Russia and, whilst most people in this western\nextremity of the country no longer react with amazement when you reveal that\nyou do not eat meat, your strange preference is still met with a visible degree\nof perplexity whether dining at someone\u2019s house or eating out in caf\u00e9 or\nrestaurant. On this occasion, long ago, Olga did manage to organise something\nakin to borsch, the most traditional of Russian dishes, but very few places\nother than this would be willing to make me borsch with the essential\ningredient, meat, excluded.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The next rift with tradition was trying to get a cup of tea with milk. The problem here was the inverse of meat: with meat dishes it was necessary to exclude, whilst with tea, it was all a matter of remembering to include. To this day, whenever we order tea (chi<\/em>) in a caf\u00e9 , restaurant or hotel, the milk is always forgotten, and it is not altogether unknown to be asked with a puzzled expression \u2018skolka<\/em>?\u2019, how much?, and even then you can sometimes end up with a tumbler full.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hurdles are there to be overcome, hoops are there to be jumped through and the cold outside was waiting for us. Wrapped up and back outside, we continued along the prom, our attention and progress arrested by the sight of a rather peculiar tower, rectangular of shape and clad entirely in large sheets of corrugated tin. This, Olga explained, was a lift shaft, the lift within ready to transport you to the elevated ground above, only today it was not working. That was a shame, I thought, as it looked well dodgy and dangerous. We also passed another means of aerial transport, this time in the form of small bucket-shaped cable cars, the wire on which they were suspended following the slope of the bank. A note in my 2000 diary refers to rust and a certain degree of lopsidedness, the implication being that I had been rather pleased to discover that these were not working either, even if it did mean walking up the steep incline. And very steep it was and very slippery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Exploring Svetlogorsk ~ Bar No Toilet<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Approximately\nthree-quarters of the way up this hill, the urge for a pint kicked in and when\nit did we were fortunate enough to be a snowballs throw away from a neon sign\nwith \u2018Bar\u2019 written on it. The old-fashioned red neon tube was a sight for sore\neyes, frozen hands and almost unfeeling toes. From the outside this bar looked\nexceptionally basic and the inside did not disappoint me: half-a-dozen round\ntables with four plain chairs around each, a high, short counter, two beer\nengines and an electric fire ~ my kind of place. Olga had a vodka and Joss and\nI had two ice cold lagers ~ just the ticket for this sort of weather! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

We must\nhave spent at least forty minutes in this humble but gratifying establishment,\nduring which we were watched by the bar staff as if we had just landed from\nPluto. We soon learnt that our presence in the Kaliningrad region was\nsingularly astonishing; we tended to be regarded somewhere between exotic and\nalien, or exotic aliens, with an oscillating reaction which swung back and\nforth from amused curiosity to highly suspicious caution. At first it was\nunnerving, but, as we became accustomed to it and realised it was par for the\ncourse, the attention we received appealed to our sense of the exciting and\ncomic. Besides, if we knew nothing else, we had armed ourselves with one very\nimportant and versatile Russian phrase, which was Ya nee penymio<\/em> (I\ndon\u2019t understand).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This phrase came into its own when we enquired Gdye\ntoylete<\/em>? And the answer came back, \u201cWe haven\u2019t got one.\u201d I had often used\nthis response when I was younger to guests who were visiting our family home;\ntheir confusion was delightful. But now with the tables turned it did not seem\nquite so funny. Further enquiry, with our legs crossed, revealed that although\nthey really did not have a toilet, patrons were welcome to use the toilet block\noutside that belonged to an establishment on the opposite side of the street.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In  normal circumstances, ie normal being when the steeply sloping road outside was not covered by a glacier, such an excursion may have been a considerably less arduous and adventurous undertaking, but even with my brother and I providing more than moral support to each other we ended up sliding this way and that in a helpless fit of the giggles. Fortunately, no accidents  accrued, in any place where they might have done when one is dying for a pee whilst inadvertently ice skating, and having mastered this peculiarly Russian ritual, we downed another pint and headed back to the Russ where, \u2018isn\u2019t it obvious\u2019, we had returned for a short respite and a snack before travelling into Kaliningrad for our first experience of Russian hospitality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Copyright \u00a9 2018-2020 Mick Hart. All rights reserved.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Exploring Svetlogorsk 28 December 2000 \u201c\u2026 and then, to top it all off, they passed the bill to me!\u201d This was Joss recounting his adventures the night before over breakfast, which was ~surprise, surprise ~ a Russian version of cold meats and cheeses. \u201cSo,\u201d I clarified, \u201cyou all had plenty of food and the most […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_themeisle_gutenberg_block_has_review":false,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7,6],"tags":[70,35,73,72,74],"class_list":["post-300","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-diary-2000","category-kaliningrad-mick-harts-diary","tag-exploring-svetlogorsk","tag-mick-hart-svetlogorsk","tag-svetlogorsk-rauschen","tag-svetlogorsk-russia","tag-svetlogorsk-year-2000"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":477,"url":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/svetlogorsk-gothic-rauschen\/","url_meta":{"origin":300,"position":0},"title":"Svetlogorsk Gothic (Rauschen)","author":"Captain Codpiece","date":"5 \u0444\u0435\u0432\u0440\u0430\u043b\u044f, 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Rauschen (Svetlogorsk) Gothic Architecture This is one of my all-time favourite buildings in the Kaliningrad region\u2019s coastal resort, Svetlogorsk (German: Rauschen). Without genning up on its history, I would estimate that it dates to around the 1920s and is designed and constructed in a neo-Gothic style. The wooden cladding, turret\u2026","rel":"","context":"\u0412 "Kaliningrad Region Photo Gallery"","block_context":{"text":"Kaliningrad Region Photo Gallery","link":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/category\/visitors-guide-to-kaliningrad-region\/kaliningrad-region-photo-gallery\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/02\/20200102_121900.jpg?resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":4053,"url":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/a-gothic-favourite-of-svetlogorsk-revisited\/","url_meta":{"origin":300,"position":1},"title":"A Gothic Favourite of Svetlogorsk Revisited","author":"Captain Codpiece","date":"1 \u0438\u044e\u043b\u044f, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"Appraising the restoration of an architectural delight Published: 1 July 2021 Back in February 2020, I felt compelled to flag one of my favourite historical buildings in the Baltic resort of Svetlogorsk, the former German town of Rauschen. At the time of writing, this superb example of neo-Gothic architecture was\u2026","rel":"","context":"\u0412 "Kaliningrad Region Photo Gallery"","block_context":{"text":"Kaliningrad Region Photo Gallery","link":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/category\/visitors-guide-to-kaliningrad-region\/kaliningrad-region-photo-gallery\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"A Gothic Favourite of Svetlogorsk Revisited","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Rauschen-Gothic-House.jpg?fit=1200%2C555&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Rauschen-Gothic-House.jpg?fit=1200%2C555&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Rauschen-Gothic-House.jpg?fit=1200%2C555&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Rauschen-Gothic-House.jpg?fit=1200%2C555&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Rauschen-Gothic-House.jpg?fit=1200%2C555&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":143,"url":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/christmas-in-gdansk\/","url_meta":{"origin":300,"position":2},"title":"Christmas in Gdansk","author":"Captain Codpiece","date":"11 \u0444\u0435\u0432\u0440\u0430\u043b\u044f, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Christmas in Gdansk Updated: 11 February 2022 | First published: 5 October 2019 ~ Christmas in Gdansk Christmas in Gdansk\u00a0is the fourth article in a series of posts that recount my first visit to Kaliningrad in 2000, and my first impressions of the land, the people and its culture. The\u2026","rel":"","context":"\u0412 "Diary 2000"","block_context":{"text":"Diary 2000","link":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/category\/kaliningrad-mick-harts-diary\/diary-2000\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Christmas in Gdansk Mick Hart & Joss Hart","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Mick-Hart-Joss-Hart-in-Gdansk-2000.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Mick-Hart-Joss-Hart-in-Gdansk-2000.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Mick-Hart-Joss-Hart-in-Gdansk-2000.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Mick-Hart-Joss-Hart-in-Gdansk-2000.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Mick-Hart-Joss-Hart-in-Gdansk-2000.jpg?fit=1200%2C900&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":11369,"url":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/telegraph-in-svetlogorsk-good-coffee-unique-art\/","url_meta":{"origin":300,"position":3},"title":"Telegraph in Svetlogorsk Good Coffee Unique Art","author":"Mick","date":"25 \u0430\u0432\u0433\u0443\u0441\u0442\u0430, 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"On route to originality Revised 25 August 2025 | First published 14 October 2024 ~ Telegraph in Svetlogorsk Good Coffee Unique Art Contrary to received wisdom, it is not always necessary or indeed advisable for travellers to stick to the beaten track. Verily, by doing so the chances of missing\u2026","rel":"","context":"\u0412 "Kaliningrad Events Reviewed & Culture"","block_context":{"text":"Kaliningrad Events Reviewed & Culture","link":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/category\/visitors-guide-to-kaliningrad\/kaliningrad-events-reviewed\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Steampunk desin in Telegraph in Svetlogorsk","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Streampunk-design-Telegraph-in-Svetlogorsk-min.jpg?fit=1200%2C903&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Streampunk-design-Telegraph-in-Svetlogorsk-min.jpg?fit=1200%2C903&ssl=1&resize=350%2C200 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Streampunk-design-Telegraph-in-Svetlogorsk-min.jpg?fit=1200%2C903&ssl=1&resize=525%2C300 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Streampunk-design-Telegraph-in-Svetlogorsk-min.jpg?fit=1200%2C903&ssl=1&resize=700%2C400 2x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/expatkaliningrad.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Streampunk-design-Telegraph-in-Svetlogorsk-min.jpg?fit=1200%2C903&ssl=1&resize=1050%2C600 3x"},"classes":[]},{"id":13389,"url":"https:\/\/expatkaliningrad.com\/ru\/my-special-day-out-in-svetlogorsk-by-mick-hart\/","url_meta":{"origin":300,"position":4},"title":"My Special Day Out in Svetlogorsk by Mick Hart","author":"Mick","date":"28 \u0430\u0432\u0433\u0443\u0441\u0442\u0430, 2025","format":false,"excerpt":"A day out at the Baltic Coast 28 August 2025 - My Special Day Out in Svetlogorsk by Mick Hart Don\u2019t you just hate it when you mislay something? It\u2019s so frustrating, isn\u2019t it? This year I have had trouble remembering what I\u2019ve done with summer. 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